★ Sydney’s small animal experts since 1985
Netherland Dwarf Rabbits
Australia’s smallest domestic rabbit — compact, curious and full of character. Everything you need to know before, during and after bringing your Netherland Dwarf home.
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Netherland Dwarf Rabbits are the smallest breed of domestic rabbit available in Australia. Our purebred Netherland Dwarfs typically weigh between 500g and 1.7kg — a similar size to a large male guinea pig. Due to genetic dwarfism, they have large, rounded heads in comparison to their compact bodies, giving them an enduringly baby-like appearance.
Our rabbits for sale in store are usually around seven weeks of age. We will never sell a rabbit younger than this, as they may still be suckling at this stage. If you are ever concerned about a very young rabbit, we always have rabbit milk replacer in stock.
You may also want to consider one of our adult rehomers. We have rabbits arrive in store from time to time looking for new homes — these can make beautiful pets and are often already litter trained. Ask our team in store if this interests you.
Mini Lop Rabbits are the second smallest breed in Australia, averaging 0.75kg to 2.5kg. They have large, floppy ears and are widely regarded as the most docile breed of rabbit — calm, laid-back and very easy to handle.
Netherland Dwarfs are the smallest breed, averaging 500g to 1.9kg. They have very small upright ears and a more inquisitive, alert nature. Both breeds litter train extremely well and can get along with other pets including guinea pigs and birds. Some of our rabbit customers have their pets free-ranging in the house, and some even cohabit happily with cats and dogs — though this always requires proper socialisation and supervision.
Both breeds share identical diet requirements, so everything in this guide applies equally to Mini Lops. The biggest difference is temperament — if you want the most relaxed, beginner-friendly rabbit, the Mini Lop has the edge. If you love a rabbit with a bit more personality and curiosity, the Netherland Dwarf is hard to beat.
A healthy Netherland Dwarf diet is built around high-fibre hay, supported by quality pellets, leafy greens and the occasional treat. Getting the ratios right is important — rabbit digestion is sensitive and an imbalanced diet is one of the most common causes of health issues in pet rabbits.
- Hay — 70–80% The foundation of your rabbit’s diet. Must be available at all times. Oaten, meadow, rye, timothy or a blended mix are all excellent choices. Hay keeps the digestive system moving, helps wear teeth down naturally and should never be replaced with straw, which has no nutritional value.
- Pellets — up to 10% A good quality pellet provides essential vitamins and minerals that hay and vegetables alone cannot supply. Recommended brands include Vetafarm Rabbit Origins, Selective, Peckish and our own Petsville pellets. Avoid supermarket brands, which are often low-grade and may contain harmful additives. Do not overfeed pellets — too many can cause obesity.
- Leafy greens — 8% of treats Carrot tops, celery, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, spinach, endive, Asian greens, parsley, dandelion, coriander, mint, basil and dill are all excellent options.
- Fruit & root veg — 2% of treats Carrot, sweet potato, capsicum and blueberries in small amounts. Despite the myth, carrots are high in sugar and should be fed sparingly. Fruit is not necessary but if you do offer it, blueberries are one of the best choices for rabbits.
- Legumes Lucerne, alfalfa and clover should be treated as a treat rather than a staple — they are high in sugar, protein and calcium, and low in fibre.
Treats are a wonderful tool for building trust and beginning training. Use them strategically — offer them by hand so your rabbit associates you with good things. Petsville stocks a wide selection of rabbit-safe treats in store.
Hay is the single most important component of your rabbit’s diet and should be available at all times — not just offered once a day. Rabbits are herbivores that naturally graze for up to seven hours a day, and they need constant access to high-fibre roughage to keep their digestive system functioning properly. Without adequate hay, rabbits are highly prone to gastrointestinal stasis — a potentially fatal condition.
Do not confuse hay with straw. Straw is a bedding material with no nutritional content — rabbits cannot thrive on it and it should never be used as food. All recommended hays are high in fibre and suitable for Netherland Dwarfs — oaten, meadow, rye, timothy or a blended mix are all great choices. If your rabbit is overweight, timothy hay is the leanest option.
We recommend Australian-grown hay, which is genuinely world class. Avoid imported hay from the US and other countries — it must be gamma-irradiated on the way in and is often treated with molasses to make it palatable. Our hay at Petsville has such a high turnover that it is always fresh, and you’re supporting Australian farmers at the same time.
A hay feeder is an essential accessory — it keeps the hay elevated, clean and free from being soiled or walked on, and allows your rabbit to graze naturally throughout the day.
There is no such thing as an enclosure that is too big. Your rabbit should have enough space to move around freely, stand upright, and stretch out fully without touching the sides or any enrichment items. Both indoor and outdoor enclosures are available at Petsville — speak to our team for advice on the best option for your situation.
For indoor enclosures, a solid non-absorbent plastic base is ideal — it is easy to clean, easy to disinfect and won’t harbour bacteria the way wooden surfaces can. For outdoor hutches, make sure the structure offers protection from direct sun, rain and predators at all times.
Cleaning your rabbit’s enclosure regularly with a rabbit-safe hutch cleaner is essential. Rabbit urine is highly acidic and will burn their skin if allowed to accumulate under the bedding. Standard household disinfectants can be toxic to rabbits — use products such as CSI, Vetafarm, F10 or Aristopet hutch cleaner, all of which are available in store. If your enclosure or rabbit ever smells, you have left it too long between cleans.
Bedding should be kept clean, dry and changed regularly. For outdoor hutches, straw is a good bedding choice. For indoor enclosures, dust-extracted sawdust, hemp, paper litter bedding or wood pellets are all excellent options. Aim for a bedding depth of around 5 to 15cm.
The substrate used in the main enclosure should always be different from what you use in the litter tray — this contrast helps your rabbit identify the litter tray as the correct place to toilet. Popular litter options include hemp, cats best, wood pellets and paper pellets. Never use hay as substrate, as this can lead to your rabbit confusing its food and toilet area.
Salt licks and mineral blocks are an important addition to your rabbit’s enclosure. It can be difficult to know exactly how much salt and minerals are present in the hay and pellets you’re feeding, so providing a salt lick ensures your rabbit can supplement its diet as needed — they will only use it when their body requires it, and a single lick lasts a very long time.
Vitamin supplements in liquid or drop form are also available in store. These are particularly useful if your rabbit is on a lower-quality diet, recovering from illness or going through a stressful period such as moving to a new home. A small animal vitamin supplement added to drinking water is a simple and effective way to top up your rabbit’s daily nutritional intake.
Enrichment is not optional — it is essential for your rabbit’s physical and psychological wellbeing. Rabbits are intelligent, social animals and without mental stimulation they quickly become bored, which leads to destructive behaviour, chewing and general mischief. A well-enriched rabbit is a calmer, friendlier and easier-to-handle rabbit.
One of the most important reasons to provide chew toys is dental health. A rabbit’s teeth grow continuously throughout its life. Without appropriate items to chew, teeth can overgrow — a painful and expensive problem that can only be corrected by a vet. Wooden toys, wooden hides and good quality hay all help wear teeth down naturally.
Provide a minimum of four to six toys at any time, and rotate them regularly so your rabbit doesn’t lose interest. Good enrichment options include chew toys, wooden toys, rope toys, tunnels, hides, balls, foraging puzzles, cardboard boxes, wicker baskets and treat holders. If a rabbit destroys a toy, it means they love it — replace it.
Netherland Dwarf rabbits toilet train very easily — in fact, rabbits are one of the simplest animals to litter train. In the wild, rabbits instinctively go to the toilet in one designated area outside their burrow, and this natural behaviour makes training in captivity remarkably straightforward.
Place a litter tray in the corner of the enclosure — indoors or outdoors — and fill it with a different substrate to what you use on the enclosure floor. The contrast in texture and scent helps your rabbit identify the tray as the correct spot. Popular litter choices include hemp and cats best. If your rabbit makes a mistake, simply place the droppings into the tray — the scent will encourage them to return to the right spot. It really is that simple.
Netherland Dwarfs have short, neat coats and require minimal grooming — but they do benefit from a weekly brush, particularly during moulting when they shed their baby fur and grow in their adult coat. Use a wire brush to remove patches of loose fur and prevent it from being ingested, which can lead to hairball issues.
You may occasionally want to bathe your rabbit. Always use a rabbit-safe shampoo with the correct pH — human, dog and cat shampoos are too acidic for a rabbit’s sensitive skin. A rabbit dry bath powder is also available for between washes. We stock both Vetafarm rabbit shampoo and Aristopet dry bath powder in store.
When handling your rabbit, always support the bottom and use two hands. When you first bring your rabbit home, give them one to two days to settle before handling — wait until they are eating and drinking normally before you begin. Start with short, gentle sessions in a quiet environment, and build up gradually. Never hold a rabbit by its ears. Rabbits can kick strongly if frightened, so always handle calmly and with care to avoid injury to both of you.
A harness and leash is a great addition for rabbit owners who want to take their bunny outside safely. Never use a collar — always use a harness specifically designed for rabbits. Start by introducing the harness indoors for short periods before progressing to outdoor adventures.
Rabbits are far more trainable than most people expect. With the right approach and a little consistency, you can teach your Netherland Dwarf to come when called, jump onto your lap, use a litter tray reliably and even respond to basic commands. The key is understanding how rabbits perceive the world.
As prey animals, rabbits have eyes on the sides of their heads and excellent 360-degree peripheral vision — but relatively poor straight-ahead eyesight. You may notice your rabbit bobbing or tilting its head when you approach — this is your rabbit trying to get a better look at you. Approach calmly and let them see and smell you before attempting to touch them. A rabbit’s sense of smell and whiskers are their primary tools for assessing their immediate environment — hold treats right under their nose rather than waving them at eye level.
Once your rabbit has verified you are not a threat, give them a treat and offer affection. Two short training sessions per day of around five minutes each, using your rabbit’s favourite treats as rewards, will produce the best results. Use the same simple commands each time — sit, stay, come, up — and always deliver the treat immediately when the desired behaviour occurs. Do not reward the wrong behaviour, as this simply reinforces it. Clicker trainers are available in store for those who want to use this method.
Your new Netherland Dwarf should be wormed 10 days after bringing them home — once they have had time to settle into their new environment. Worming a rabbit too soon after being moved can upset their stomach. After the initial treatment, worming should be repeated every three months. It is as simple as adding the solution to your rabbit’s drinking water, and the bottle comes with clear instructions.
The common house fly is a known carrier of parasitic worms and can infect your rabbit by landing on food, water or bedding after contact with infected faeces. Regular worming protects not only your rabbit but your entire household, as the same worms can affect humans and other pets.
Rabbits are also susceptible to mites, mange and fleas. A preventative mite and mange spray applied every 12 weeks is strongly recommended — even if you have no other pets, as these parasites can be transmitted by flies and other wildlife. Flea treatment is available in store and is recommended as a monthly preventative. All products are easy to use and come with clear instructions.
If you ever notice a change in your rabbit’s behaviour, appetite, appearance or energy levels — anything unusual — it is worth acting promptly. Below are some of the most common health issues in Netherland Dwarf rabbits.
Hairballs
Rabbits ingest fur during grooming. A high-fibre hay diet and regular brushing helps the fur pass through the digestive tract without accumulating.
Overgrown teeth
Rabbit teeth grow continuously throughout life. Without enough hay and chew toys, teeth can overgrow — causing pain and requiring vet treatment. Prevention is far easier than the cure.
Sore hocks
Sore or burned feet caused by unsuitable flooring or acidic urine that hasn’t been cleaned properly. Use rabbit-safe cage cleaner regularly and ensure appropriate bedding.
Coat dandruff or fur loss
Usually a sign of mites or fleas. A regular mite, lice and flea treatment schedule will prevent this.
Snuffles (respiratory infection)
Signs include wheezing, runny nose and white or jelly-like discharge from the eyes. This is not a cold — rabbits do not catch human colds. See a vet promptly.
Loose cecotropes or diarrhoea
Cecotropes are nutrient-rich droppings that rabbits re-ingest — this is normal. Loose cecotropes often indicate a diet too high in carbohydrates, sugar or water-rich vegetables, or too low in fibre. True diarrhoea can be more serious and should be assessed by a vet.
Head tilt
Can result from a stroke, protozoan infection, trauma or other causes. With prompt and appropriate treatment, many rabbits with head tilt go on to live a long and happy life.
Fly strike
Flies biting or laying eggs on a rabbit, developing into maggots. More common in outdoor rabbits. A fly-deterrent spray safe for small animals is available in store, or bring your rabbit indoors during fly season.
Loneliness
Research has shown that lonely rabbits have shorter lives. Even rabbits that don’t enjoy being held still benefit from out-of-cage time, interaction and enrichment toys.
Sudden Death Syndrome
Small animals can be susceptible to sudden death from fright, heart conditions or other causes. Following this guide gives your rabbit the very best chance of a long, healthy life — but we cannot guarantee the life of any living creature. If you lose a rabbit unexpectedly, a necropsy from a vet can help determine the cause.
If you are unsure whether your rabbit looks healthy, bring them in to see us at Petsville — we are happy to do a complimentary visual health check and show you what to look for. We also have a list of experienced exotic and small animal vets below.
Please be aware that our animals are not DNA sexed. We will always give our best expert opinion on the sex of a rabbit, and we’re happy to show you how we sex them — but please understand this is not a guarantee, particularly in very young animals.
Many vets recommend vaccinating your rabbit at 12 weeks of age. It is advisable to keep your rabbit indoors or under mosquito netting until this is done. Some newer vaccines allow earlier vaccination — speak to your vet at your first visit about the best timing for your rabbit. Desexing can also make toilet training easier and is worth discussing at the same appointment.
Our Netherland Dwarf rabbits come with a free health check at an approved, experienced veterinarian. Ask our team in store for details.
Everything you need to bring your Netherland Dwarf home and set them up properly.
The following vets have experience with rabbits and small exotic animals. We recommend booking a health check shortly after bringing your rabbit home.
SASH — Small Animal Specialist Hospital
Level 1, 1 Richardson Place, North Ryde
(02) 9190 6806
The Wild Vet
22A Bridge Road, Glebe
1300 945 383
SERV — Sydney Exotics & Rabbit Vets
57–63 Herbert St, Artarmon
(02) 9436 4884
Southern Cross Vet
60 Princes Hwy, St Peters
(02) 9516 0234
Carlingford Animal Hospital
772 Pennant Hills Road, Carlingford
(02) 9871 6036
Our Netherland Dwarf rabbit stock changes regularly. Please call or visit us in store to find out what is currently available. Rabbit boarding is also available — visit our boarding page for details. Open 7 days at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria — (02) 9669 1766.
Come in and meet them
Our team at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria are here 7 days a week — happy to help you choose the right rabbit, answer any questions and set you up with everything you need to bring your new companion home with confidence. Look for the sunshine yellow building on the corner of Botany Road and Gardeners Road.