How to Care for Murray Darling Carpet Pythons

The Murray-Darling Carpet Python (Morelia spilota metcalfei) is native to southeastern Australia, especially around the Murray-Darling Basin, spanning inland river systems across New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland and South Australia. Typically docile in captivity, they’re regarded as one of the calmest carpet python subspecies and a good fit for intermediate keepers, though their size and confident handling needs mean they suit someone with some prior reptile experience. Adults often reach 2 to 2.7 metres, one of the larger-bodied carpet python subspecies, and commonly live 20 to 30 years or more with proper care. They’re hardy and tolerate the cooler inland climates of their native range well compared with more delicate reptiles, but still need a proper thermal gradient, correct humidity, regular feeding and an escape-proof enclosure to thrive.

Essential Supplies, Housing, Environment, Diet & Feeding, Providing Water, Behaviour & Handling, Common Health Issues, Parasite Control, Health, Hygiene & Safety, Toxic & Dangerous Hazards, Sexing, Record Keeping, Holiday Care, Transportation, Compatibility with Other Animals, Licensing, Recommended Vets and Links

Essential Supplies for Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons

Carry Enclosure: A sturdy, escape-proof and well-ventilated carry enclosure is mandatory for all reptiles leaving Birdsville. Carry enclosures are essential for any reptile transportation.

Enclosure: Adults should be housed in a secure, lockable enclosure of at least 120 × 60 × 120 cm (L×W×H), reflecting both this subspecies’ larger average size and its semi-arboreal climbing habits. Larger enclosures allow more room for movement and environmental enrichment. The enclosure must be escape-proof, well ventilated, and free of sharp edges or gaps. For hatchlings or juveniles, smaller housing is acceptable initially, but upgrades will be necessary as the snake grows.

Substrate: Use a reptile-safe substrate such as aspen, coconut fibre, cypress mulch, hemp bedding, or paper towels. Avoid dusty or aromatic materials like pine or cedar. Spot-clean daily, and replace the substrate fully every 2–3 months (or more often if soiled).

Food: The diet of Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons consists of frozen-thawed rodents. Prey size should be no larger than the widest diameter of the snake’s body; oversized prey items increase the risk of regurgitation.

Heating and Thermostat: To allow thermoregulation, you’ll need a reliable heat source (e.g. heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or overhead radiant panel) controlled by a good thermostat. Maintain the warm zone at 30–32°C, and the cooler end around 24–26°C. Night-time temperatures should not drop below approximately 20–22°C. Always monitor with accurate digital thermometers, and replace any heat device if it malfunctions, ideally every 12–24 months or sooner.

UVB Lighting: Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons do not require strong UVB lighting, but a low-output UVB (2–5%) can be beneficial for overall health and calcium metabolism. Use the UVB light for 10–12 hours daily. Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months, even if the lamp still glows, because UV output degrades over time.

Hides: Provide at least two secure hides, one in the warm area and one in the cooler region of the enclosure. These should be snug and stable to help the snake feel safe. Clean them regularly, and replace them if they become cracked, mouldy, or damaged.

Water Bowl: Offer a shallow but stable water dish large enough for the snake to soak. Change the water every 1–2 days and disinfect at least weekly to prevent bacterial growth. Always ensure the bowl is stable to prevent tipping.

Enrichment and Climbing: Include branches, logs, rocks, or textured surfaces to encourage natural behaviours and exploration. All items should be cleaned periodically and securely anchored so they don’t shift or fall, risking injury.

Feeding and Handling Tools: Feeding tongs are essential for safely offering prey without risking your fingers, and a snake hook can be useful for calmly and safely handling a defensive or unfamiliar snake during enclosure maintenance. Use separate tools (or thoroughly disinfect) between enclosures if you keep more than one snake, and replace any tools that become bent, corroded, or worn.

Reptile-Safe Cleaning Supplies: We recommend F10 for cleaning and disinfecting enclosures, along with scrub brushes or sponges (dedicated for reptile use), gloves, and containers for soaking hides or décor. Avoid harsh chemicals such as bleach without proper rinsing, and replace any cleaning tools that degrade or retain odour.

Housing

Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons require a secure enclosure that provides sufficient space for movement, thermoregulation, and natural behaviours. As the snake grows, enclosure size should increase to accommodate its changing needs. A minimum of 120 × 60 × 120 cm (L×W×H) is recommended for adults, given how large this subspecies typically grows, and hatchlings or juveniles shouldn’t be moved into a full adult-sized enclosure too early. The enclosure should include a suitable balance of floor space, climbing opportunities, secure hides, and environmental enrichment. Providing vertical space is particularly beneficial due to the species’ natural climbing behaviour. All furnishings should be securely positioned and regularly checked for damage or hazards.

TIP: If the snake regularly occupies most of the enclosure length or can stretch along multiple sides of the enclosure, an upgrade may be required.

Environment

A thermal gradient should be provided to allow voluntary thermoregulation. The warm area should generally be maintained around 32–34°C, with a cooler area approximately 24–26°C. Night-time temperatures may decrease naturally but should remain within a safe range suitable for the species. Humidity should generally be maintained at moderate levels, approximately 40–60%, with good ventilation to prevent excessive moisture accumulation. Slight increases in humidity may assist during shedding periods. Heating equipment must always be thermostat controlled and monitored to prevent overheating or burns.

Diet & Feeding

Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons are carnivorous and should be offered appropriately sized prey items. In captivity, frozen-thawed rodents are recommended due to the reduced risk of injury compared with live feeding. Prey should be appropriately sized and generally should not exceed the widest part of the snake’s body. Feeding frequency depends on age, size, metabolism, activity level, and body condition. Juveniles generally require more frequent feeding than adults, while mature snakes require fewer meals to maintain a healthy body condition. Overfeeding should be avoided as obesity is a common husbandry-related issue in captive pythons. Uneaten prey should be removed promptly.

Providing Water to Your Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons

Keep a water dish available in the enclosure at all times, positioned somewhere stable where it won’t easily be knocked over as a snake of this size moves through its space. Murray-Darlings will often use their water bowl to soak, particularly leading into a shed, so check the water level and cleanliness daily rather than assuming it’s fine because you filled it recently. A weekly scrub with a reptile-safe cleaner keeps bacteria from building up on the dish itself, and it’s worth sizing the bowl up as your snake grows into its adult length so it can still fully submerge if it wants to.

Behaviour & Handling

Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons are generally considered a calm and adaptable species, often noted as one of the most even-tempered carpet python subspecies, although individual temperament can vary. Juveniles may initially display defensive behaviours such as retreating, hissing, or striking when stressed. Handling should be calm, controlled, and respectful of the snake’s behaviour, with the snake always fully supported and allowed to move freely through the handler’s hands. Handling should be avoided immediately after feeding and during periods of shedding to reduce stress and the risk of regurgitation. A python that’s just arrived in a new home needs time to settle before handling starts in earnest. Watch for persistent defensive behaviour, excessive hiding, reduced appetite or abnormal breathing, and don’t rush the process, since over-handling a snake that hasn’t adjusted yet can put enough stress on its immune system to make it seriously unwell. At the same time, an animal that’s left completely alone won’t become used to handling either, so a steady, gradual introduction works best. Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons are solitary animals and should generally be housed individually.

Common Health Issues

Respiratory Illness

Cold, damp, or poorly ventilated conditions are the leading cause of respiratory problems in captive pythons. Watch for wheezing, open-mouth breathing, clicking sounds, or nasal discharge, and get a reptile vet involved quickly if these appear, since respiratory infections can deteriorate fast.

Mouth Infections (Stomatitis)

This bacterial condition affects the gums and mouth lining, typically presenting as swelling, discolouration, or excess saliva around the mouth. Left untreated it can progress into the jaw or bloodstream, so early veterinary care combined with strict hygiene is important.

Mites

Small dark or reddish specks moving on the scales, around the eyes, or in the water bowl point to a mite infestation. Affected snakes often soak more than usual trying to relieve irritation, and untreated infestations can lead to anaemia. A full clean-out with reptile-safe treatment is needed to resolve one properly.

Poor Shedding (Dysecdysis)

Retained shed, particularly around the eye caps and tail tip, is usually a humidity issue rather than anything more serious. A consistent humidity gradient and rough surfaces to rub against generally sort out mild cases; shed that won’t come away on its own should be checked by a vet.

Internal Parasites

Not always obvious without testing, but ongoing weight loss or abnormal stools despite a normal appetite are worth a faecal exam to rule out parasites, which can then be treated appropriately.

Regurgitation

Often linked to feeding too soon after handling, an incorrect thermal gradient, or stress. One episode is a good reason to review husbandry, but a snake that regurgitates repeatedly should see a reptile vet.

Thermal Burns

Direct access to unprotected or malfunctioning heating equipment can cause anything from mild skin damage to serious injury. Every heat source should be thermostat-controlled and positioned out of the snake’s physical reach.

Physical Injury

Unstable décor, sharp enclosure edges, or rough handling during transport can all lead to injury. Check furnishings regularly for stability, and have any wound, swelling or unusual movement assessed promptly to rule out infection.

Parasite Control

Because Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons are typically calm and easy to handle, regular handling sessions double as a good opportunity to check over the skin, especially around the eyes, chin and vent, for the small dark specks that indicate mites. Any new snake coming into the collection should spend several weeks in quarantine away from your existing reptiles before being introduced, since this is the most reliable way to stop an infestation spreading. Keeping the substrate fresh and wiping the enclosure down with a reptile-safe disinfectant on a regular basis also makes it harder for mites to establish. Should you find any, the enclosure will need a complete strip and treatment, so speak with our team about a suitable product rather than trying to manage it with a single spray.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Good hygiene practices are essential for maintaining reptile health and reducing disease risks. Hands should be washed before and after handling reptiles, enclosure equipment, or waste. Waste should be removed regularly, water containers cleaned frequently, and enclosure maintenance performed using reptile-safe cleaning products. Snakes should always be handled responsibly, with full body support provided and appropriate precautions taken around children and other animals.

Toxic & Dangerous Hazards

Aerosol sprays, scented candles, essential oil diffusers and strong household cleaning products can all irritate a snake’s respiratory system, so keep these away from the enclosure and stick to reptile-safe products for any cleaning done inside it. Because Murray-Darlings grow into a solidly built, powerful adult, enclosure security needs regular attention too. Check lids, doors and vents periodically for any looseness, since a determined snake this size can exploit even a small gap over time. Position the enclosure away from unsecured heat sources, open flames and windows that let in direct sun, and keep other household pets from having unsupervised access to it.

Sexing

Sex isn’t something we determine visually before sale, and with a species this size, incorrect probing technique carries a real risk of injuring the snake, so it’s not something to attempt yourself without experience. If you want your Murray-Darling’s sex confirmed, whether for breeding plans or just peace of mind, ask our team about arranging this with an experienced handler rather than guessing based on tail shape or behaviour.

Record Keeping

Keep a log of feeding dates and prey size, shedding cycles, body weight, enclosure cleaning, and any health concerns as they arise. A consistent record makes it easy to spot early deviations from normal, such as a skipped shed or a drop in appetite, and gives your vet a much clearer picture to work from if a health issue ever comes up.

Holiday Care

If you plan to be away for more than a few days, arrange for a trusted and experienced reptile carer. Provide them with clear written instructions, including a feeding schedule, temperature requirements, and vet contact details. Avoid overfeeding prior to your departure. Adult Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons can safely go 1–2 weeks without food, but clean water and stable temperatures must be maintained. Timers for heating and lighting can help automate care and reduce the risk of errors while you’re away.

Transportation

Use a secure, escape-proof container lined with paper towels or cloth for transport. A soft cloth bag placed inside a lidded plastic tub works well. Keep the container at a stable temperature, out of sunlight and drafts. Never transport your python in a loose bag or with loose décor. During long journeys, stop periodically to check conditions and minimise stress. Always handle the snake gently during transport to keep it calm.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Murray-Darling Carpet Pythons are solitary reptiles and should always be housed alone. Co-housing with other snakes or reptiles can result in stress, disease transmission, or even predation. Avoid exposing them to other pets, such as cats or dogs, which may view the snake as prey or become stressed themselves. Always supervise if other animals are present in the room.

Licensing

A Native Animal Keeper Licence is required to own a Murray-Darling Carpet Python in NSW and must be obtained through Service NSW prior to purchase. All reptiles must be captive-bred and sourced from licensed breeders or registered pet stores. Wild collection and release of captive reptiles is illegal. Keepers must comply with the NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles, including housing, welfare and record-keeping requirements.