How to care for spotted pythons | Birdsville reptile specialists

The Eastern Small Blotched Python (Antaresia maculosa), commonly known as the Spotted Python, is a small-to-medium python native to Australia’s east coast, ranging from the tip of Cape York Peninsula south through eastern Queensland and into northern New South Wales, including a number of coastal islands off the Queensland coast. In the wild it favours rocky outcrops, woodland and dry forest, sheltering in rock crevices and hollow logs, and in captivity it typically reaches 110 to 140 centimetres, noticeably larger than the closely related Children’s Python, and lives 15 to 20 years or more with proper care. This nocturnal species is known for its manageable size and gentle nature, making it well suited to beginner to intermediate reptile keepers who can provide a secure enclosure with a warm temperature gradient, moderate humidity, and enrichment such as hides and climbing structures. It feeds primarily on appropriately sized frozen-thawed rodents and, like all snakes, sheds more frequently as a juvenile. With consistent handling, regular cleaning, and attentive care, the Spotted Python makes a rewarding, relatively low-maintenance reptile companion.

On This Page: Basic Information, Essential Supplies, Housing, Environment, Diet and Feeding, Providing Water, Behaviour and Handling, Common Health Concerns, Parasite Control, Health, Hygiene & Safety, Toxic & Dangerous Hazards, Sexing, Record Keeping, Holiday Care, Transportation, Compatibility with Other Animals, Licensing, Recommended Vets and Links

Basic Information

The Eastern Small Blotched Python (Antaresia maculosa), also commonly referred to as the Spotted Python, is native to Australia’s east coast, ranging from the tip of Cape York Peninsula south through eastern Queensland and into northern New South Wales, including a number of coastal islands off the Queensland coast. In its natural habitat, it lives in rocky outcrops, woodland areas, and dry forest regions, often sheltering in rock crevices and hollow logs. When kept in captivity with proper care, these snakes can live for 15 to 20 years, sometimes longer. Adult individuals usually grow to a length of around 110 to 140 centimetres, making them noticeably larger than the closely related Children’s Python. These pythons are nocturnal, meaning they are most active during the night. Like all snakes, they undergo a series of moults throughout their life, with more frequent shedding occurring during their juvenile stages as they grow. This species is well suited for beginner to intermediate reptile keepers thanks to its manageable size, calm personality, and husbandry requirements.

Essential Supplies

Carry Enclosure: A sturdy, escape-proof and well-ventilated carry enclosure is mandatory for all reptiles leaving Birdsville. Carry enclosures are essential for any reptile transportation.

Enclosure: Adults should be housed in a secure, lockable enclosure of at least 90 x 45 x 45 cm, though larger enclosures are strongly encouraged and allow more room for movement and environmental enrichment, especially given some individuals grow past 140 cm. The enclosure must be escape-proof, well ventilated, and free of sharp edges or gaps. For hatchlings or juveniles, smaller housing is acceptable initially, but upgrades will be necessary as the snake grows.

Substrate: Use a reptile-safe substrate such as aspen, coconut fibre, cypress mulch, hemp bedding, or paper towels. Avoid dusty or aromatic materials like pine or cedar. Spot-clean daily, and replace the substrate fully every 2 to 3 months, or more often if soiled.

Food: The diet of Spotted Pythons consists of frozen-thawed rodents. Prey size should be no larger than the widest diameter of the snake’s body, oversized prey items increase the risk of regurgitation.

Heating and Thermostat: To allow thermoregulation, you’ll need a reliable heat source (e.g. heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or overhead radiant panel) controlled by a good thermostat. Maintain the warm zone at 31 to 33°C, and the cooler end around 24 to 26°C. Night-time temperatures should not drop below approximately 20 to 22°C. Always monitor with accurate digital thermometers, and replace any heat device if it malfunctions, ideally every 12 to 24 months or sooner.

UVB Lighting: Spotted Pythons do not require strong UVB lighting, but a low-output UVB (2 to 5%) can be beneficial for overall health and calcium metabolism. Use the UVB light for 10 to 12 hours daily. Replace UVB bulbs every 6 to 12 months, even if the lamp still glows, because UV output degrades over time.

Hides: Provide at least two secure hides, one in the warm area and one in the cooler region of the enclosure. These should be snug and stable to help the snake feel safe. Clean them regularly, and replace them if they become cracked, mouldy, or damaged.

Water Bowl: Offer a shallow but stable water dish large enough for the snake to soak. Change the water every 1 to 2 days and disinfect at least weekly to prevent bacterial growth. Always ensure the bowl is stable to prevent tipping.

Enrichment and Climbing: Include branches, logs, rocks, or textured surfaces to encourage natural behaviours and exploration. All items should be cleaned periodically and securely anchored so they don’t shift or fall, risking injury.

Feeding and Handling Tools: Feeding tongs are essential for safely offering prey without risking your fingers, and a snake hook can be useful for calmly and safely handling a defensive or unfamiliar snake during enclosure maintenance. Use separate tools (or thoroughly disinfect) between enclosures if you keep more than one snake, and replace any tools that become bent, corroded, or worn.

Reptile Safe Cleaning Supplies: We recommend F10 for cleaning reptile enclosures, and stock it in store, along with scrub brushes or sponges dedicated for reptile use, gloves, and containers for soaking hides or decor. Avoid harsh chemicals such as bleach without proper rinsing, and replace any cleaning tools that degrade or retain odour.

Housing

Spotted Pythons require a secure, well-ventilated enclosure that provides enough space for movement, thermoregulation, and natural behaviours. Adults should be housed in a minimum 90 x 45 x 45 cm enclosure, with larger sizes preferred where possible to allow greater environmental enrichment, particularly given how much bigger this species can grow compared to other Antaresia pythons. Hatchlings and juveniles may initially be housed in smaller enclosures to assist with security and monitoring but should be upgraded as they grow. They shouldn’t be moved into a full adult-sized enclosure too early. As a general guide, the enclosure should allow the snake to stretch out comfortably and move between warm and cool areas. Environmental enrichment should be provided through the use of secure hides, branches, logs, rocks, and suitable artificial or natural plants. The enclosure should be maintained in a clean and hygienic condition, with waste and soiled substrate removed regularly. Adequate ventilation is essential to maintain air quality and prevent excessive moisture accumulation.

TIP: If the snake is regularly occupying most of the enclosure length or can stretch along multiple sides of the enclosure, it may be time to consider upgrading the enclosure size.

Environment

Spotted Pythons require a temperature gradient that allows them to regulate their body temperature. The warm end of the enclosure should generally be maintained at approximately 31 to 33°C, with a cooler area around 24 to 26°C. Night-time temperatures may decrease naturally but should remain within a safe range, generally around 20 to 22°C or above. Heating equipment must be controlled by an appropriate thermostat to reduce the risk of overheating and thermal burns, and monitored regularly using reliable digital thermometers. Humidity should generally be maintained at moderate levels, approximately 40 to 60%, with good ventilation provided to prevent prolonged damp conditions. Slight increases in humidity may assist during shedding periods; however, the enclosure should not remain excessively wet. A consistent day and night cycle should be provided to support natural activity patterns.

Diet and Feeding

Spotted Pythons are carnivorous and should be offered appropriately sized prey items, with frozen-thawed rodents being the preferred option for captive animals. Prey should be appropriately sized and should not exceed the widest part of the snake’s body to reduce the risk of regurgitation and obesity. Feeding frequency depends on the snake’s age, size, growth rate, activity level, and body condition. Juveniles generally require more frequent feeding than adults, while mature snakes typically require less frequent meals.

Providing Water to Your Spotted Python

Fresh, clean water should be available at all times in a stable, heavy bowl large enough for the snake to soak in when it wants to. Water should be changed every 1 to 2 days, and the bowl disinfected at least weekly to prevent bacterial growth. Soaking becomes especially important around shedding, as it helps loosen old skin and supports a clean, complete shed.

Behaviour and Handling

Spotted Pythons are generally considered a calm and manageable species, although individual temperaments can vary. Juveniles may initially be shy or defensive but often become more settled with consistent, gentle interaction. When you first bring your snake home, give it time to settle before handling, minimise disturbance for the first few days and watch for signs of stress. Over-handling a newly relocated snake can cause enough stress to suppress its immune system and, in serious cases, kill it, so keep initial handling to a minimum while it adjusts. On the other hand, under-handling or avoiding your snake entirely will stop it from ever settling and becoming comfortable with you.

Handling should always be calm, with the snake fully supported and slow movements used to reduce stress. Handling should be avoided during the shedding process and for approximately 24 to 48 hours after feeding to reduce the risk of regurgitation. These pythons are naturally solitary animals and should generally be housed individually. Signs of stress may include persistent hiding, defensive behaviour, reduced appetite, abnormal breathing, or repeated attempts to escape.

Common Health issues

Respiratory Disease

Respiratory infections are one of the most frequent issues in captive pythons and are usually caused by poor temperature regulation or overly damp enclosures. Signs include wheezing, clicking sounds, open-mouth breathing, and mucus or bubbles around the nostrils. These infections can escalate quickly and require prompt veterinary attention.

Stomatitis (Mouth Infection)

A bacterial infection that causes inflammation and ulceration of the gums and oral cavity. Affected snakes may show swelling around the mouth, discoloured or bloody gums, and thick saliva or pus. Good hygiene and prompt vet care are essential.

External Parasites (Mites)

Tiny external parasites that appear as small black or red moving dots on the skin, eyes, or around the enclosure. Infestations can cause irritation, restlessness, excessive soaking, and even anaemia or disease transmission.

Shedding Issues (Dysecdysis)

Incomplete or problematic shedding, especially stuck shed around the eyes or tail, is often linked to incorrect humidity levels or dehydration. A proper humidity gradient and rough surfaces in the enclosure help facilitate complete sheds.

Internal Parasites

Harder to detect without veterinary testing. Symptoms may include regurgitation, weight loss despite eating, and runny or abnormal stools. Faecal exams are the best way to confirm a parasite load.

Regurgitation

Can be caused by improper temperatures, stress, handling too soon after feeding, or underlying illness. A snake that regurgitates more than once should be assessed by a reptile veterinarian.

Thermal Burns

Occur when snakes gain direct access to unprotected heating equipment or when heating devices malfunction. All heating equipment should be thermostat controlled to minimise risk.

Injury

May result from enclosure hazards, unstable furnishings, transport incidents, or accidental trauma. Enclosures should be maintained in a safe condition and injuries monitored closely for signs of infection.

Parasite Control

The most common external parasite in captive snakes is mites, usually introduced through a new animal, unwashed décor, or contact with an already-infested enclosure. Rather than a routine preventative spray, the best defence is quarantining any new reptile for several weeks before introducing it near other animals, inspecting your snake and its water bowl regularly for small dark or reddish specks, and keeping the enclosure and furnishings clean. If mites are spotted, a full clean-out using a reptile-safe treatment is needed. Please speak to our team in store for the right product.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Good hygiene practices are essential to support animal health and reduce the risk of disease transmission. Hands should be washed before and after handling reptiles, enclosure furnishings, or waste materials. Enclosures, water containers, and equipment should be cleaned regularly using F10. Regular health monitoring should include observation of feeding behaviour, body condition, activity levels, shedding, and general appearance. Any significant changes should be investigated promptly by a veterinarian experienced with reptiles.

Toxic & Dangerous Hazards

As a carnivorous species fed on whole prey, Spotted Pythons aren’t exposed to the food-based toxins that affect fruit or vegetable-eating pets, but there are still real household hazards to be aware of. Keep the enclosure away from aerosol sprays, scented candles and essential oil diffusers, which can affect a snake’s respiratory system. Household cleaning chemicals should never come into contact with the enclosure or its furnishings; use F10 or another reptile-safe product only. Make sure the enclosure is fully secure. An escaped snake can get into walls, appliances or other areas of the house where it may be injured or hard to retrieve, and you should never leave a snake unattended around other household pets.

Sexing

Spotted Pythons cannot be reliably sexed by appearance alone. Determining sex is usually done through probing or popping, techniques that should only be carried out by an experienced keeper or reptile vet to avoid injuring the snake. We’re happy to share our opinion where we can, but this is not a guarantee.

Record Keeping

It’s important to keep a log of feeding dates, prey size, shedding cycles, weight, enclosure cleaning, and any health concerns. Maintaining a detailed record log for your python is crucial for monitoring its long-term health and wellbeing, and helps you quickly spot any deviations from normal patterns. If veterinary care becomes necessary, a detailed history allows the veterinarian to diagnose and treat problems more effectively.

Holiday Care

Spotted Pythons are low-maintenance for short absences, and healthy adults can go 1 to 2 weeks without food, provided clean water and temperature control are maintained. For longer absences, arrange a reliable, reptile-experienced carer and provide clear, written care instructions. Use light and heat timers to automate day and night cycles. Do not overfeed before you leave, and avoid asking inexperienced carers to handle the snake unnecessarily.

Transportation

When transporting a Spotted Python, a secure, escape-proof container should be used that protects the animal from injury, temperature extremes, and unnecessary stress. Transport containers should be appropriately ventilated and positioned to prevent excessive movement during travel. Transport should be undertaken in accordance with applicable animal welfare and biosecurity requirements.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Spotted Pythons should be housed alone, as co-housing can lead to aggression, feeding-related accidents, and unnecessary stress. They are solitary animals by nature and do not require companionship. Interactions with household pets should be avoided, and the enclosure must be secured to prevent unwanted contact. Always ensure that children and other pets are supervised around the enclosure.

Licensing

A Native Animal Keeper Licence is required to own a Spotted Python in NSW and must be obtained through Service NSW prior to purchase. All reptiles must be captive-bred and sourced from licensed breeders or registered pet stores. Wild collection and release of captive reptiles is illegal. Keepers must comply with the NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles, including housing, welfare and record-keeping requirements.