How to care for Eastern Longneck Turtles

At a Glance: Eastern Long Neck Turtle

• Lifespan: 20 to 50 years or more
• Adult shell length: around 26 cm
• Minimum tank size: 120 × 50 × 50 cm (approx. 300 litres)
• Diet: Carnivorous (feeder fish, yabbies, shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms)
• Temperament: Calm, can become interactive with regular handling from a young age
• Licence required: Yes (NSW Native Animal Keeper Licence)

The Eastern Long Neck Turtle (Chelodina longicollis) is a freshwater turtle native to eastern Australia, found across New South Wales, Victoria, Queensland and South Australia in slow-moving rivers, lakes, swamps and billabongs. It’s instantly recognisable by its long, snake-like neck, which can be almost as long as its shell, used to strike quickly at passing prey and giving it a genuinely distinctive look compared to other native turtles. This semi-aquatic reptile spends most of its time in the water but needs regular access to a dry basking area to thermoregulate and stay healthy.

Adults typically reach a shell length of around 26 centimetres, smaller than the Murray River Turtle’s roughly 30 centimetres. They can live for 20 to 50 years or more with proper care, a serious long-term commitment even though generally shorter than the Murray River Turtle’s 50 to 60 years. This species tends to be calmer and less food-driven than some other native turtles, and can become genuinely interactive with regular, consistent handling from a young age. Because of the water quality, heating and lighting demands involved, this species is best suited to keepers with some prior aquatic or reptile experience.

• Quick Facts
• About the Eastern Long Neck Turtle
• Essential Supplies
• Housing
• Environment
• Diet & Feeding
• Providing Water
• Mineral Supplements
• Behaviour & Handling
• Common Health Issues
• Parasite Control
• Health, Hygiene & Safety
• Toxic & Dangerous Hazards
• Sexing
• Record Keeping
• Holiday Care
• Transportation
• Compatibility with Other Animals
• Licensing
• Recommended Vets and Links
• Frequently Asked Questions

Essential Supplies

Carry Enclosure: A sturdy, escape-proof and well-ventilated carry enclosure is mandatory for all reptiles leaving the store, turtles included.
Enclosure: Adults require a minimum enclosure of 120 × 50 × 50 cm (approximately 300 litres) with a water depth of at least 30-40 cm, sufficient for the turtle to swim and turn freely. Larger enclosures are always preferable, and juveniles can start smaller before being upgraded as they grow.
Filtration System: A powerful external or internal canister filter rated to at least double your tank’s water volume is recommended, since turtles produce significantly more waste than fish of a comparable size.
Water Heater: A thermostatically controlled aquarium heater may be needed to maintain stable water temperatures, particularly indoors. Water temperature should generally sit around 22-26°C.
Thermometer: A reliable water thermometer (and a separate one for the basking area) lets you keep a close eye on both, since guessing by feel isn’t accurate enough for a species that depends on correct temperatures for digestion and shell health.
UVB Lighting: A T5 10% UVB globe positioned over the basking area supports vitamin D3 production, calcium metabolism, and healthy shell and bone development.
Basking Heat Lamp: A basking area is essential so the turtle can leave the water and thermoregulate, generally reaching 30-35°C and allowing the shell to fully dry.
Basking Platform: A stable, easily accessible dry platform where the turtle can climb completely out of the water.
Water Conditioners and Testing Equipment: Test regularly for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH, and use appropriate treatments to remove chlorine and chloramines from tap water.
Feeding Equipment: Tongs, containers and storage equipment for safe, hygienic feeding of live and frozen prey.
Net: A fine aquarium net for removing uneaten food, waste and debris from the tank helps maintain water quality between filter cycles and full water changes.

All the products mentioned on this page, and more, are available in-store, from enclosures, filtration and heating equipment through to water conditioners, feeding supplies, and mineral and health-support products, so drop in and our staff can help you put together the right setup.

Housing

Eastern Long Neck Turtles are primarily aquatic and require a well-maintained enclosure sized to their compact adult frame, a minimum of 120 × 50 × 50 cm with at least 30-40 cm water depth. Juveniles can start out in a smaller tank, but will need to be moved up to this full adult size as they grow. A bare-bottom tank or large, smooth river stones too big to be swallowed are the safest substrate choices, since they’re easiest to keep clean; fine sand and small loose gravel are best avoided, as sand can create low-oxygen dead spots in the water and small gravel poses an ingestion risk. The enclosure should provide adequate swimming depth, a secure dry basking area, strong filtration, safe access points, and protection from escape and predators. Outdoor ponds may suit adults when properly designed with secure barriers and predator protection.

Environment

Water temperature should generally remain around 22-26°C, with a basking area reaching approximately 30-35°C via a dedicated heat lamp alongside UVB lighting. The basking area should occupy roughly 25% of the tank’s surface. Clean water is one of the most important aspects of turtle care: regular water changes, effective filtration, and prompt waste removal all help prevent bacterial and fungal problems.

Diet & Feeding

Eastern Long Neck Turtles are primarily carnivorous hunters and stay predominantly meat-eating throughout life. Suitable foods include live or frozen feeder fish, freshwater yabbies and shrimp, earthworms, live or frozen bloodworms, and occasional lean prawn. All feeding should take place underwater. Juveniles generally need feeding daily, while adults do well on three to five feeds a week.

Feeding Baby Eastern Long Neck Turtles: Babies have the same hunting-based diet as adults, just scaled down and offered more often: daily feeds of appropriately sized live or frozen feeder fish, bloodworms, small pieces of earthworm, and tiny shrimp, in portions roughly the size of the turtle’s head. Frozen bloodworms are a genuinely popular and convenient staple for baby turtles. Always feed in water, and remove any uneaten food promptly.

Providing Water

Since Eastern Long Neck Turtles spend almost all their time submerged, the water itself needs just as much attention as the tank setup. Always treat tap water with a reptile-safe dechlorinator before adding it, since chlorine and chloramine are both harmful to aquatic life. Partial water changes every one to two weeks help keep waste and nitrate levels in check between full water changes, and a good filtration system does much of the heavy lifting in between, keeping conditions stable and reducing how often manual changes are needed. Test water parameters regularly rather than relying on how clear the water looks, since ammonia and nitrite can climb to dangerous levels well before the water appears dirty.

Mineral Supplements

Unlike land-dwelling reptiles, Eastern Long Neck Turtles can’t simply be dusted with calcium powder, since anything added ends up in the water rather than staying on their food. Water-dissolving mineral and calcium blocks, such as our in-store slow-release calcium block, are designed to slowly release calcium and other minerals directly into the water column, supporting shell strength and helping prevent conditions like Metabolic Bone Disease. These blocks are a simple, low-maintenance way to keep mineral levels topped up between feeds, and our staff can help you choose the right one for your tank size.

Behaviour & Handling

Eastern Long Neck Turtles are active, curious animals. Always support the turtle’s body securely when picking it up. This species may release a strong-smelling musk when stressed, a natural defence response that’s earned it the nickname “stinker” in the wild.

In the wild, this species is surprisingly resilient away from water: during drought, it can travel overland for several kilometres in search of a new pond or wetland, a striking adaptation for a turtle that spends almost all its time submerged. In captivity, most individuals start out shy and withdraw into their shell at the first sign of movement nearby, but with consistent, calm interaction many genuinely learn to associate their keeper’s presence with feeding time, becoming noticeably bolder and swimming up to the surface when someone approaches the tank.

H3: Shell Rot

Shell rot is a bacterial or fungal infection of the shell, usually caused by poor water quality, prolonged dampness, or an injury that hasn’t healed properly. Signs include soft, discoloured, foul-smelling, or flaking patches on the shell. Keeping the tank clean and the water well-filtered goes a long way toward preventing it. We stock anti-fungal blocks in-store that help manage fungal-related shell and skin issues, and slow-release mineral blocks that support overall shell health, so ask our staff for advice if you notice any changes.

H3: Respiratory Infection
Caused by cold water, poor water quality, or low basking temperatures, respiratory infections show up as wheezing, gaping, nasal discharge, or a turtle that struggles to stay submerged and floats lopsided. This is one of the most common health issues in pet turtles and needs prompt vet attention, as it can worsen quickly.

H3: Vitamin A Deficiency
A diet lacking variety, particularly one too heavy in feeder fish or pellets without enough fresh vegetables, can lead to vitamin A deficiency. This typically presents as swollen eyelids and puffy skin around the eyes, sometimes leading to secondary eye infections. A varied diet with leafy greens usually prevents this.

H3: Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Caused by inadequate calcium, insufficient UVB exposure, or a lack of proper basking, MBD leads to a soft or misshapen shell, weakness, and swelling of the limbs. Consistent UVB lighting, basking access, and calcium/mineral supplementation are the best prevention.

Ear Abscess

Ear abscesses appear as a swelling on the side of the head and are usually linked to poor water quality or vitamin A deficiency. They require veterinary treatment to drain and resolve.

Parasite Control

Internal parasites such as worms and protozoa are the more common concern in pet turtles, often picked up through contaminated water, live feeder fish, or contact with wild-caught turtles. Signs can include poor appetite, lethargy, unusual stools, or weight loss despite normal feeding. A faecal exam from an exotic-savvy vet is the best way to confirm and treat an infestation, and regular water changes combined with good filtration help keep parasite loads low in the first place. Any newly acquired turtle should be quarantined in a separate tank for at least 4-6 weeks and checked over before being introduced to an existing tank or pond setup, to give time for any hidden illness or parasites to show up.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Wash hands before and after handling the turtle or cleaning its enclosure. Freshwater turtles can carry bacteria such as Salmonella, so good hygiene is essential, especially around children.

Tap water straight from the mains contains chlorine and chloramine, both harmful to aquatic life, so always treat water with a reptile-safe dechlorinator before it goes anywhere near your turtle. Coins and other metal objects are a genuine hazard too; people occasionally toss coins into ponds for luck, but the zinc and copper content can cause serious metal poisoning if a turtle mistakes one for food. Keep household chemicals, insecticides, and aerosol sprays well away from the tank or pond area, as even airborne residue settling on the water surface can be harmful.

If your turtle has access to an outdoor pond, check for toxic plants such as oleander or azalea near the water’s edge, and be aware that foxes, dogs, cats, and birds of prey can all pose a real threat to an unprotected pond setup. Substrate choice matters as well: loose gravel small enough to be swallowed can cause impaction, so opt for pieces too large to ingest or a bare-bottom setup instead. Finally, don’t underestimate how capable these turtles are at climbing; an open-topped or low-walled enclosure is often an unplanned escape route waiting to happen.

Reliably telling males and females apart is difficult in young turtles and only becomes practical once they’re closer to full size. In mature individuals, males tend to have a longer, thicker tail with the cloaca (vent) positioned further from the body, while females have a shorter tail with the cloaca sitting closer to the base. This is easiest to observe while the turtle is still in the water, since the tail tends to retract in when it’s picked up and handled. Females also generally grow larger overall than males, though this is really only noticeable when comparing individuals side by side. The underside of the shell can offer another clue: males often have a slightly concave (curved inward) plastron, while females tend to have a flatter or slightly convex one. If you’re still unsure, a reptile expert can confirm sex with a closer physical examination.

Keeping a simple record for your turtle makes it much easier to spot problems early. Note down feeding amounts and frequency, along with any changes in appetite. Track weight and shell length periodically to monitor healthy growth, and keep photos of the shell over time so subtle changes, such as the early stages of shell rot, are easier to catch. Logging water quality checks (temperature, pH, and how often the filter is cleaned) alongside vet visits and any treatments given rounds out a useful health history, particularly if you ever need to bring your turtle to a vet for an issue.

Holiday Care

Healthy adult Eastern Long Neck Turtles can typically go up to about a week without feeding if needed, as long as the tank’s filtration, heating, and UVB lighting are all left running and the water quality is checked before you leave. Juveniles have higher energy needs and shouldn’t be left this long between feeds. For trips longer than a few days, arrange for a trusted person to check in, feed every 2-3 days, and top up water levels, ideally someone who’s had a proper handover on the setup rather than a casual pet-sitter unfamiliar with reptiles. Avoid overfeeding right before you leave, as uneaten food left in the water can quickly foul it while no one’s around to clean it up.

Transport your turtle in a secure, ventilated container lined with paper towel or shredded newspaper; damp lining helps on longer trips but isn’t essential for a short one. Never transport it in water. Keep the container away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures.

Eastern Long Neck Turtles are active hunters, so tank mates need to be chosen carefully. Small fish, shrimp, frogs, crabs, crayfish (including yabbies) and snails are all at risk of being eaten and should be avoided; a large yabby can also turn the tables and injure or even kill a baby turtle, so the risk runs both ways depending on relative size. Large, fast-swimming fish, such as giant danios, rosy barbs, larger rainbowfish, or adult mollies, can sometimes cohabit successfully, but only in a spacious, well-filtered tank, and there’s always some risk given the turtle’s hunting instinct. Large plecos are commonly kept alongside full-grown turtles, and many of our customers have had good long-term success with this pairing thanks to the pleco’s size and armoured body, but they should still be introduced with caution and monitored, as turtles may still nip at fins or barbels. Other large, non-aggressive turtles of a similar size may also be housed together in a suitably large, carefully managed enclosure, but aggressive or territorial individuals should never be combined. Any new turtle should be quarantined separately for at least 4-6 weeks before being introduced to an existing setup.

Licensing

A Native Animal Keeper Licence is required to own an Eastern Long Neck Turtle in NSW and must be obtained through Service NSW prior to purchase. All turtles must be captive-bred and sourced from licensed breeders or registered pet stores; collecting one from the wild is illegal without additional specific permits. Keepers must also comply with the NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles, which sets minimum standards for enclosure size, environment, and general care.

Recommended Vets and Links

If your Eastern Long Neck Turtle needs veterinary care, it’s important to see a vet experienced with reptiles and aquatic species, not all general vets are. Some Sydney options to consider include:

• Sydney Exotics & Rabbit Vets
• The Unusual Pet Vets
• Sydney Animal Hospitals (Inner West, North Shore, and Ultimo locations)

For anything relating to licensing or keeping native reptiles in NSW, these official resources are worth bookmarking:

• NSW Department of Climate Change, Energy, the Environment and Water (DCCEEW) – Reptile and Amphibian Keeper Licence information
• NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles

How long do Eastern Long Neck Turtles live?

Eastern Long Neck Turtles typically live for 20 to 50 years or more with proper care, making them a genuine long-term commitment rather than a short-term pet.

Do I need a licence to keep an Eastern Long Neck Turtle in NSW?

Yes, a Native Animal Keeper Licence from Service NSW is required to own an Eastern Long Neck Turtle in New South Wales, and all turtles must be sourced from licensed breeders or registered pet stores rather than collected from the wild.

Can Eastern Long Neck Turtles be handled?

Yes, handling generally isn’t an issue for this species, though they may release a strong-smelling musk if stressed. Always support their body securely when picking them up.

Can Eastern Long Neck Turtles live with fish or other tank mates?

Some large, fast-swimming fish and large plecos can cohabit successfully in a spacious, well-filtered tank, but small fish, shrimp, crabs, crayfish and snails are all at risk of being eaten and should be avoided.

How big of a tank does an Eastern Long Neck Turtle need?

Adults need a minimum enclosure of 120 × 50 × 50 cm (around 300 litres) with a water depth of at least 30-40 cm. Juveniles can start smaller but will need to be upgraded to this size as they grow.

Now the shortened FOR-SALE licensing version, linking back to this page:

FOR-SALE page — Licensing (shortened, links to CARE page)

A Native Animal Keeper Licence from Service NSW is required before you can purchase an Eastern Long Neck Turtle. See our full care guide for details on licensing requirements and the NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles.