Children's Python Care Guide - Birdsville Bird Shop, Sydney

The Children’s Python (Antaresia childreni) is a small, non-venomous python native to northern Australia. This species is widely regarded as one of the most suitable pythons for beginner reptile keepers due to its manageable size, generally calm disposition, and relatively straightforward husbandry requirements. Adults typically reach 70–110 cm in length and can live for more than 20 years in captivity when provided with appropriate care. As with all reptiles, Children’s Pythons require housing, nutrition, and environmental conditions that support their physical and behavioural needs. Keepers must provide secure accommodation, suitable temperatures, access to fresh water, and opportunities for the snake to express natural behaviours such as sheltering, thermoregulating, climbing, and exploring. Ownership of native reptiles in New South Wales is subject to licensing requirements and animal welfare obligations under relevant legislation.

Basic Information

The Children’s Python (Antaresia childreni) is a small, non-venomous snake native to Australia’s northern regions. These snakes typically grow to between 70–110 cm in length and live 15–30 years in captivity. They are considered a great beginner species for those new to reptiles, thanks to their manageable size, calm nature, and simple care needs. However, keeping a python is still a long-term commitment that requires consistency, responsibility, and knowledge of NSW reptile laws.

Essential Supplies

Carry Enclosure

A sturdy, escape proof and well-ventilated carry enclosure is mandatory for all repltiles leaving Birdsville. Carry enclosures are essential for any reptile transportation.

Enclosure

Adults should be housed in a secure, lockable enclosure of at least 120 × 60 × 60 cm, though larger enclosures allow more room for movement and environmental enrichment. The enclosure must be escape‑proof, well ventilated, and free of sharp edges or gaps. For hatchlings or juveniles, smaller housing is acceptable initially, but upgrades will be necessary as the snake grows.

Substrate

Use a reptile‑safe substrate such as aspen, coconut fibre, cypress mulch, or paper towels. Avoid dusty or aromatic materials like pine or cedar. Spot-clean daily, and replace the substrate fully every 2–3 months (or more often if soiled).

Food

Children’s pythons diet consist of frozen-thawed rodents, prey size should be no larger than the widest diameter of the snake’s body; oversized prey items increase the risk of regurgitation.

Heating and Thermostat

To allow thermoregulation, you’ll need a reliable heat source (e.g. heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or overhead radiant panel) controlled by a good thermostat. Maintain the warm zone at 30–32 °C, and the cooler end around 24–26 °C. Nighttime temperatures should not drop below ~20–22 °C. Always monitor with accurate digital thermometers. Replace any heat device if it malfunctions—ideally every 12–24 months or sooner.

UVB Lighting

Children’s Pythons do not require strong UVB lighting, but a low‑output UVB (2–5 %) can be beneficial for overall health and calcium metabolism. Use the UVB light for 10–12 hours daily. Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months, even if the lamp still glows, because UV output degrades over time.

Hides

Provide at least two secure hides—one in the warm area and one in the cooler region of the enclosure. These should be snug and stable to help the snake feel safe. Clean them regularly, and replace them if they become cracked, moldy, or damaged.

Water Bowl

Offer a shallow but stable water dish large enough for the snake to soak. Change the water every 1–2 days and disinfect at least weekly to prevent bacterial growth. Always ensure the bowl is stable to prevent tipping.

Enrichment and Climbing

Include branches, logs, rocks, or textured surfaces to encourage natural behaviours and exploration. All items should be cleaned periodically and securely anchored so they don’t shift or fall, risking injury.

Equipment

Feeding tongs are essential for safely offering prey without risking your fingers. Use separate items (or thoroughly disinfect) for different enclosures if you have more than one snake. Replace feeding tools if they become bent, corroded, or worn. Snake hook

Reptile Safe Disinfectant

You’ll need reptile-safe disinfectants, scrub brushes or sponges (dedicated for reptile use), gloves, and containers for soaking hides or décor. Avoid harsh chemicals (e.g. bleach without proper rinsing). Replace any cleaning tools that degrade or retain odor.

Housing

Children’s Pythons are small to medium-sized snakes and do well in a secure, well-ventilated enclosure that reflects their natural habitat. Hatchlings and juveniles can be started in a 60–90 cm enclosure, but adults should be housed in a minimum 90 × 45 × 45 cm setup. Larger is always better, as it allows for more movement and enrichment. Unlike arboreal species, Children’s Pythons are primarily terrestrial but will occasionally climb, so offering a mix of floor space and low branches or decor is ideal. All enclosure furnishings, such as hides, branches, and rocks must be stable and non-abrasive to prevent injury.
TIP: If the snake is regularly occupying most of the enclosure length or can stretch along multiple sides of the enclosure, it may be time to consider upgrading the enclosure size.

Environment

A thermal gradient should be maintained within the enclosure to allow the snake to regulate its body temperature. The warm end should generally be maintained at approximately 30–32°C, with a cooler area between 24–26°C. Night-time temperatures may decrease naturally but should remain within a safe range. Heating equipment should be controlled by an appropriate thermostat and monitored regularly to ensure temperatures remain stable. Relative humidity should generally remain moderate, with adequate ventilation provided to reduce excessive moisture accumulation and support respiratory health. During shedding periods, slight increases in humidity may assist with normal skin shedding. A natural day and night light cycle of approximately 10–12 hours of light per day should be maintained. While UVB lighting is not considered essential, low-level UVB may provide additional welfare benefits when incorporated appropriately.

Diet & Feeding

Children’s Pythons are carnivorous and should be offered appropriately sized vertebrate prey. Frozen-thawed rodents are generally recommended as they reduce the risk of injury associated with live feeding. Prey items should be appropriately sized relative to the snake’s body condition and age. Feeding frequency will vary depending on the age, size, growth rate, reproductive status, and condition of the animal. Juveniles generally require more frequent feeding than adults. Care should be taken to avoid excessive feeding, as obesity is a common husbandry-related health concern in captive snakes. Fresh drinking water should be available at all times. Feeding should be undertaken using appropriate tools where necessary to minimise the risk of accidental bites and to support safe handling practices.

Behaviour & Handling

Children’s Pythons are generally considered a calm and adaptable species, although individual temperaments may vary. They are primarily nocturnal and may be most active during the evening and night. When disturbed, individuals may retreat to shelter, adopt a defensive posture, or strike if they feel threatened. Handling should be undertaken calmly and only when necessary for husbandry, health assessments, transport, or routine interaction. The snake’s body should be adequately supported during handling, and interactions should be kept brief if signs of stress are observed. Handling should be avoided immediately following feeding to reduce the risk of regurgitation. Provision of appropriate shelter, environmental enrichment, and opportunities to express natural behaviours can help reduce stress and support positive welfare outcomes.

Common Health Concerns

Respiratory Disease

Respiratory infections are one of the most frequent issues in captive pythons and are usually caused by poor temperature regulation or overly damp enclosures. Signs include wheezing, clicking sounds, open-mouth breathing, and mucus or bubbles around the nostrils. These infections can escalate quickly and require prompt veterinary attention, as they often indicate bacterial involvement.

Stomatitis (Mouth Infection)

Mouth rot is a bacterial infection that causes inflammation and ulceration of the gums and oral cavity. Affected snakes may show signs such as swelling around the mouth, discoloured or bloody gums, and thick saliva or pus. If left untreated, the infection can spread to the jawbone or bloodstream. Good hygiene and prompt vet care are essential to treat this condition.

External Parasites (Mites)

Snake mites are tiny external parasites that appear as small black or red moving dots on the skin, eyes, or around the enclosure. Infestations can cause irritation, restlessness, excessive soaking, and even lead to anaemia or disease transmission. Mites must be treated quickly using reptile-safe products and a thorough deep clean of the enclosure.

Shedding Issues (Dysecdysis)

Incomplete or problematic shedding, especially stuck shed around the eyes or tail, is often linked to incorrect humidity levels or dehydration. Providing a proper humidity gradient and rough surfaces in the enclosure helps facilitate complete sheds. Mild cases can be managed at home, while persistent problems may require vet support.

Internal Parasites

Though harder to detect without veterinary testing, internal parasites can affect a snake’s digestion and overall health. Symptoms may include regurgitation, weight loss despite eating, and runny or abnormal stools. Fecal exams are the best way to confirm a parasite load, which can then be treated with prescribed medication.

Regurgitation

Regurgitation can be caused by improper temperatures, stress, handling too soon after feeding, or underlying illness. If a snake regurgitates more than once, it should be assessed by a reptile veterinarian, and husbandry conditions should be reviewed to ensure they are optimal.

Thermal Burns

Thermal burns can occur when snakes gain direct access to unprotected heating equipment or when heating devices malfunction. Burns may range from mild skin damage to severe tissue injury and infection. All heating equipment should be appropriately installed and controlled by a thermostat to minimise risk.

Injury

Injuries may result from enclosure hazards, unstable furnishings, transport incidents, prey-related injuries, or accidental trauma. Signs may include cuts, abrasions, swelling, bruising, or abnormal movement. Enclosures should be maintained in a safe condition and injuries monitored closely for signs of infection.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Good hygiene practices are essential to support animal health and reduce the risk of disease transmission. Hands should be washed before and after handling reptiles, enclosure furnishings, or waste materials. Enclosures, water containers, and equipment should be cleaned regularly using reptile-safe cleaning products. Regular health monitoring should include observation of feeding behaviour, body condition, activity levels, shedding, and general appearance. Any significant changes should be investigated promptly by a veterinarian experienced with reptiles.

Record Keeping

It’s important to keep a log of:

feeding dates
prey size
shedding cycles
weight
enclosure cleaning
any health concerns

Maintaining a detailed record log for your python is crucial for monitoring its long-term health and wellbeing. By noting down feeding dates, prey sizes, shedding cycles, weight measurements, and behavioural observations, you can quickly spot any deviations from normal patterns—such as reduced appetite, irregular shedding, or weight loss, that may signal emerging health issues. Accurate records also help you fine-tune care routines, like adjusting feeding frequency or humidity levels, based on your snake’s individual needs. In addition, if veterinary care becomes necessary, having a detailed history of your python’s care and any previous health concerns allows the veterinarian to diagnose and treat problems more effectively.

Holiday Care

Children’s Pythons are low-maintenance short-term, and healthy adults can go 1–2 weeks without food, provided clean water and temperature control are maintained. For longer absences, arrange a reliable reptile experienced carer and provide clear, written care instructions. Use light and heat timers to automate day/night cycles. Do not overfeed before you leave, and avoid asking inexperienced carers to handle the snake unnecessarily.

Transportation

When transporting a Children’s Python, a secure, escape-proof container should be used that protects the animal from injury, temperature extremes, and unnecessary stress. Transport containers should be appropriately ventilated and positioned to prevent excessive movement during travel. Transport should be undertaken in accordance with applicable animal welfare and biosecurity requirements.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Children’s Pythons are solitary animals and should not be housed with other reptiles, snakes, or pets. Co-habitation can lead to stress, injury or disease transmission. Always supervise interactions between snakes and children or other pets. Enclosures must be secure to prevent escape or access by dogs, cats, or birds.

Licensing

A Native Animal Keeper Licence is required to own a Children’s Python in NSW and must be obtained through Service NSW prior to purchase. All reptiles must be captive-bred and sourced from licensed breeders or registered pet stores. Wild collection and release of captive reptiles is illegal. Keepers must comply with the NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles, including housing, welfare and record-keeping requirements.