Hand Raised Budgies for sale Sydney
Our hand raised budgies cost $60 each and are available in store most of the year
Budgies often live up to 10 years old and are very social birds. When taming your budgie, its suggested you begin with a single young budgie and play with it for a minimum of 10 minutes a day for the first 3 to 4 months. Once the bird has reached a certain age it will generally always be tame. The early days are the most important time to bond with your budgie. When you are watching TV is the best time to tame your budgie as you are relaxed, just let your feathered buddy out to watch it with you and you will quickly have a friend for life.
Like all birds when you give your budgie time to bond with you it will get tamer and tamer. If your budgie is in a group with other birds it will display more bird like behaviour but when you take your budgie home and train them and they start bonding with you it does not take long before they become very tame. Aslong as you put the work in early.
It is important to spend lots of time with your budgie and give them plenty of toys, bells are a favourite. If you do not plan to spend a lot of time with the bird it is advisable to get a second bird for company. If a single budgie is left by itself frequently it may develop depression and health issues in the near future.
Bringing your new Budgie Home
Many Budgies can become easily stressed when being introduced to a new environment. This is why i recommend all budgies that arrive to a new home to be given sulfa 3 or sulfadim for 7 days. It is a mild antibiotic that stops enteritis which is caused by stress and can easily kill a budgie. We also recommend if you have budgies and introduce a new bird to give this to them a long with a millet sprays and a good quality budgie mix as change in food quality can put budgies into stress as well.
Avoiding to much stress is important such as excited kids or even a dominant bird with a young bird placed in the same cage, when the new arrival gets used to the surroundings they will adjust quite well.
Cage for tame Budgies
Selecting a cage for your budgie will depend a lot on your personal taste, the area the cage will be kept and your budget. It is importatnt to select the largest cage that is suitable to ensure the bird will have an adequate area to move around, even when toys are added.
A cage with a large front door is a good idea for when you are taming your budgie, as it makes it easier to get the bird in and out when it is on your hand. Visit birdsville and have a look at all the different cages, as their is many different shapes and sizes. Some cages are unsuitable if your un sure ask one of our team.
This video may help some people with training there bird its not the method i would use but there is always different ways to get the same result.
Toy’s and Environmental enrichment
are also very important, like all small parrots, as they love to play. Ladders, swings and bells are ideal toys for a Budgie. Things that they can chew on and interact with are also ideal for these birds. The happier your bird and the more mental stimulation they get the better they become as a pet. They should have at least 3 toys of different textures, bells, luffa, and possibly wood. A ladder and a swing, some also enjoy a place to hide in, depending on the bird.
Links to our bird toys below
Diet for hand raised budgies
The bulk of a budgies diet is seed mix and water, sadly I encounter people all too often who only supply their bird with seed and water which isn’t quite adequate for any bird.
Seed– Always give your bird a good quality seed mix, be wary of many supermarket seed mixes and remember, seed doesn’t stay fresh forever and just because it is in a pretty packaged box, doesn’t mean it is quality. If you have one budgie it is not advisable to purchase a 20KG bag of seed, as you are better off buying small amounts of seed at regular intervals. A 5kg bag is the best value for money for even one bird. Many supermrket seed mixes stock low grade seed with alot of filler with coloured bits, large inedible seeds, soughum, useles coloured bits and shell grit. If you are not sure about the seed you are using, take it into any bird specialist store and they will be able identify and explain the seed mixes. A top quality seed really makes a big difference to your birds health.
Greens– Try to supply your budgie with some vegetables such as broccoli, spinch carrot, beetroot, snow peas, green beans and celery. Try fruit but budgies are not naturally fruit eaters and there for un likely to eat it. They also love pieces of fresh grass, be careful the grass wasnt sprayed.
Calcium and Iodine– added to the water will add many of the essential vitamins and minerals that a budgies captive environment does not supply. This is essential for the over all health and vitality of your bird. Many budgies are also deficient in iodine so make sure you supply them with iodine bells and shell grit for a source of calcium. Ensure your budgie not only survives but thrives! Many vitamin supplements also contain iodine. This can also be added to their diet in liquid form mentioned below.
Calcium is unable to be absorbed without vitamin D, please read below. Remember birds have hollow bones unlike mammals so they can not store minerals and calcium as well and need alot from the feathers they grow.
Calcium and vitamin D– Make calcium available to your birds the best of all for budgies comes in a grit mix form containing charcoal, baked egg shells, shell, crushed cuttle bone and lime stone. Vitamin D is essential for all birds absorption of calcium this comes from the sun. For a bird to absorb the vitamin D from the sun this means they must have un filtered light hit them for at-least half an hour a day. If the light comes through a window then this light is filtered and no vitamin D is absorbed and there for Calcium supplements are almost useless. If you bird is not able to get access to unfiltered light then there is Vitamin D supplements available.
Interestingly when we do bird nail clipping for customers we can actually tell if your bird has a calcium problem. Birds lacking in calcium get a whole list of issues and a shortened lifespan. Many of these customers with birds that have a calcium problem say oh but my bird gets lots of sun. My bird lives next to the window and the sun shines on them everyday. Unfortunately glass filters the sun and you can’t get vitamin D through glass. Birds need around 10 hours a week of unfiltered sunlight to get the right amound of vitamin D.
listed Below are links to Avian vitamin D supplements we stock in store is – Vetafarm soluvite D – Vetafarm D Nutrical and Vetafarm Calcivet Liquid. If you are unsure which to use, visit your local bird expert store and they should be able to help you.
Vitamin supplement– To add many essential vitamins that a captive environment does not provide. There is many great bird vitamin supplements available in Australia. Vitamins are not necessary if your Budgies is fed crumbles as they already contain them. Links to popular vitamins are linked – ornithon – vetafarm breeding aid plus – multi vitamins, passwell multi vite
Pellet’s– Some people feed there budgie’s budgie crumble always slowly introduce this to your bird as a bird that is not used to this new diet may actually starve to death especially if the budgie is a baby it takes months to wean a budgie onto pellet’s We sell budgie crumble which i prefer to give budgies as a supplement to the diet. If you want a low fat mix then increase the amound of french white seed in your birds seed mix.
Millet sprays‘- Budgies love millet sprays and its good for them. This is a very fresh millet seed which encourages baby budgies to eat more and adult budgies just enjoy them. there are a number of kinds of millet although i find french white to be the healthiest option for your bird.
Introducing your new budgie to existing birds
If you already have a budgie at home, your new budgie should be kept in a separate cage to allow the bird to adjust to it surroundings and both birds to each other. Use this time to handle your new budgie away from your older budgie. Always allow at least 2 weeks before introducing the two birds, making sure to keep an eye on them and seperate if interduction don’t go well and try again in another weeks time. Mixing budgies
The cage requires regulars cleaning and old food shouldn’t be allowed to accumulate in the cage, on perches or in feeders. Water should be changed daily basics.
Using bird friendly cage cleaner comes ready to use with no need to dilute it. Simply spray onto your pet’s cage and wipe with a cloth to remove stains, soiling and odour.
Aristopet or vetafarm cage cleaner designed to keep your cage clean safe, non toxic and easy to use.
Removes dirt and debris easy as well.
Gently deodorises without strong fragrance that could upset your bird.
Another great way to keep your cage tidy is using shellgrit as a substrate, this is what we use for our birds and it makes cleaning your cage very easy. Visit your local bird store and they will have this is a regular supply.
Medicating your budgies
Liquid majic for keeping budgies healthy. Aside from certain illnesses that these mild antibiotics are good for i recommend anyone who gets a new young or older budgie to treat them with this anytime they move as stress can often give them the runs. Sulphadim or sulfa 3 calms them down and stops them from getting the runs and therefor stops them becoming de hydrated.
Your cockatiel will need to be wormed in a few weeks to two month after being taken home check with the staff from Birdsville, when purchasing). Young birds that have been recently weaned have a delicate bacteria’s developing in there gut, worming at this stage could harm the bacteria’s development and your new bird. Worming will need to be done
every 6 month. Worming your bird is essential for the health of all parrots in captivity.
Worming your bird is actually very easy it will simply go in the water supply for amounts simply check the label on the bottle, or on some bottles peel back the label.
Why are worms bad for your bird and you?
Worms cause a range of deseases, the severity of which depends on thespecies of worm they are infected with. Paracitic worms have an inderect lifecycle with many insects such as flys, beetles, other insects and feacies acting as intermediate hosts.
Worms cac weaken your birds immune system which inadvertantly can kill your bird from a virus that a bird with a strong immune system can fight off.
if your bird is not wormed regularly and after some time you do worm your bird, the dead worms can cause intestinal or respiratory blockages, in sick adult birds it may be a good idea to worm them with a half dose first. This is at Birdsville we recommend worming every 3 months at least.
Below is a common and wide variety of worms of worms including Tapeworm Worm (Choanotaena spp, Raillietina spp), Thread Worm (Capillaria spp.) Roundworm (Ascaridia spp.), Ceacal Worm (Heterakis gallinarum), Hook Worm Acuaria spp.) in both Aviary and caged Cockatiels.
lice & Mite and Airsac mite
These are the two most common parasites of cage birds and their environment, but are easily controlled with a Mite and Lice spray, available at Birdsville. When using spray, spray bird, entire cage, perches, nesting box and toys, remember to remove all water and feed and avoid spraying in birds’ eyes. Your bird Lice and mite bottle will explain how to use, remember avoid the mouth and eyes. Your cockatiel should be sprayed every 3 months. list of lice and mice medication below for cockatiels, if your unsure of which one to buy, visit your local bird store, vetafarm avimec – inca pestene powder – aristopet scaley face and leg treatment – avitrol bird mite and lice spray – mite and lice spray
Why is lice and mites bad?
It can eventually kill your bird in severe cases, as it adds stress to your bird through sucking its blood and making your bird anemic. Lice and mites can cause plucking and skin conditions due to itchyness. These things can weaken the immune system and make your bird susceptable to desease that yur bird would normally fight off.
list of lice and mice medication below for cockatiels, if your unsure of which one to buy, visit your local bird store, vetafarm avimec – inca pestene powder – aristopet scaley face and leg treatment – avitrol bird mite and lice spray – mite and lice spray
Training is an important factor of having a well behaved hand raised budgie. When you first get the bird home, let it settle down and get use to their new environment for a day or two. After these initial days, the budgie should be handled in a quiet, relaxed situation. Spending time with your bird while watching TV or reading is perfect, but don’t over stress your bird in the first few weeks of taking it home, babies need their rest. The more time you spend with your bird, the better your bird will become. For more training tips, see the training page.
You can usually tell the sex of your budgie by the colour of the ‘cere’ (nostrils). The hen will have a brown cere and the males will be blue. In some mutations such as yellow, pied or white budgies it can be more difficult to determine their sex. When sexing baby budgies the young hen will usually have and opaque cere whilst the males will be a light pink-ish colour. This is more difficult than sexing adult birds.
Bathing is important for all birds its important to get them used to bathing from a young age or they will not bath as an adult bird.