Tarantulas are captivating, low maintenance arachnids native to Australia, prized for their burrowing behaviour, nocturnal activity and impressive size. At Birdsville, Sydney’s small animal and reptile specialist, we stock native Australian tarantula species exclusively, chosen for how manageable they are for a first time invertebrate keeper willing to do a little research. This pet tarantula care guide covers everything from enclosure setup to spotting the early signs of a health issue, so your tarantula settles in properly from day one.

Scientific name: family Theraphosidae; native Australian genera commonly kept include Selenotypus and Phlogius
Also known as: whistling spider, barking spider
Adult size: 8 to 15cm leg span
Lifespan: females 10 to 20 years, males 3 to 5 years
Diet: carnivorous, live insects
Enclosure minimum: roughly 3 to 4 times leg span in floor space (terrestrial species) or height (arboreal species)
Temperature: 22 to 28°C
Licence requirement: none for native Australian species. Exotic, non native tarantulas are illegal to keep in Australia under biosecurity law
Experience level: beginner friendly with a little research

On This Page: Tarantulas as Pets, Essential Supplies, Housing, Environment, Diet & Feeding, Providing Water, Behaviour & Handling, Common Health Issues, Parasite Control, Health, Hygiene & Safety, Toxic & Dangerous Hazards, Sexing, Record Keeping, Holiday Care, Transportation, Compatibility with Other Animals, Frequently Asked Questions, Recommended Vets and Links

Tarantulas are large, hairy spiders known for their striking appearance and slow, deliberate movements. Native Australian tarantulas are primarily nocturnal and burrowing, which makes them fascinating to watch after dark, and their care requirements stay low once the enclosure is set up correctly.

Secure enclosure: a sturdy, escape proof enclosure with a lockable lid is a must. Aim for floor space (terrestrial species) or height (arboreal species) of around 3 to 4 times the tarantula’s leg span, roughly 30 to 40cm for an adult with a 10cm leg span. Glass or plastic terrariums with ventilation mesh work well, and floor space matters more than height for terrestrial species, while arboreal species need the reverse.
Substrate: at least 5 to 10cm of a moisture retaining substrate for terrestrial species, such as a mix of coco fibre, peat and soil. Arboreal species need a thinner layer paired with cork bark or climbing structures. Keep it slightly moist but never wet.
Hides and burrow sites: cork bark, hollow logs or clay pots replicate natural retreats, and deep substrate matters most for burrowing species to allow natural digging behaviour.
Decor and climbing: branches, rocks and cork tubes add enrichment, just make sure everything is stable so nothing can shift and injure the tarantula.
Water source: a shallow water dish or damp sponge, replaced daily and cleaned regularly.
Cleaning supplies: paper towel, spare substrate and arachnid safe disinfectant, kept well away from strong chemicals.

Everything mentioned on this page, plus plenty more, is available to see and buy in store at Birdsville.

What You May Consider: a thermometer and hygrometer to track conditions without guesswork, a spare enclosure for moulting or quarantine, and extra decor for enrichment as your tarantula grows.

Enclosures should mimic the natural environment, terrestrial species need more floor space and deep substrate, while arboreal species need vertical space and climbing opportunities. Keep the habitat in a quiet area away from direct sunlight and draughts. Males and females must generally be housed separately except for controlled breeding.

Start a juvenile in a smaller enclosure sized to its current leg span rather than a full adult sized setup, and increase the size in stages as it grows through successive moults.

Maintain temperatures of 22 to 28°C for most commonly kept species, with slight fluctuations allowed at night. Humidity depends on species, terrestrial burrowers need moderate humidity around 50 to 70%, while arboreal species may need slightly higher levels. Ambient room lighting with a natural day and night cycle is sufficient, no additional lighting is required, and heating is rarely necessary unless room temperatures drop below 18°C.

Tarantulas are obligate carnivores and won’t touch plant matter, their diet is entirely live insects and other small invertebrates.

Suitable Prey

Crickets, roaches (such as Dubia roaches) and mealworms make up the bulk of a healthy diet, with superworms and locusts a fine occasional addition for variety. Prey should be no larger than the tarantula’s own body, oversized prey can turn around and injure a tarantula rather than being eaten. Gut loading feeder insects with fresh vegetables 24 to 48 hours before offering them passes that extra nutrition on to your tarantula.

Feeding Frequency by Age

Spiderlings and young juveniles grow quickly and do best on small prey 2 to 3 times a week. Sub adults can move to 1 to 2 feeds a week as growth slows, and adults, particularly larger females, often only need feeding once a week or even once a fortnight. Appetite naturally drops in the lead up to a moult, and it’s completely normal for a tarantula to refuse food entirely for several weeks around this time.

Feeding Technique

Drop prey into the enclosure in the evening when your tarantula is naturally active, rather than during the day. Watch for a reaction within the first hour, if prey is ignored, remove it and try again at the next feed rather than leaving live insects to wander the enclosure. Always remove uneaten prey within 24 hours, a live insect left with an inactive or moulting tarantula can stress or injure it.

Avoid Entirely

Never feed wild caught insects, they can carry pesticide residue or parasites picked up outdoors. Skip prey that’s clearly too large for your tarantula to safely subdue, and hold off feeding altogether in the lead up to and immediately after a moult, while the new exoskeleton is still soft.

Providing Water to Your Tarantulas

A shallow water dish is the main water source for most species, topped up and cleaned regularly so it never sits stagnant. Some keepers also lightly mist the enclosure for species that prefer higher humidity, but a clean, reliably filled dish is what does most of the work, don’t rely on misting alone.

Tarantulas are generally docile but can bite or flick urticating hairs if they feel threatened. Handling should be minimal and gentle, let them walk onto your hand rather than picking them up. They’re primarily active at night, and watching them burrow, hunt and interact with their environment after dark is part of the appeal, rather than something that needs managing.

Dehydration

Occurs if water or humidity is insufficient. Symptoms include lethargy, a shrivelled abdomen or general inactivity. A reliable water dish and appropriate humidity for the species prevents most cases.

Moulting Problems

Low humidity, incorrect substrate or injury can cause difficulties during a moult. Signs include incomplete shedding or a stuck exoskeleton. Correct substrate depth and moisture for the species helps ensure a safe moult.

Stress and Injury

Excessive handling, overcrowding or sudden environmental changes can cause stress or leg loss. Limiting handling and housing tarantulas individually prevents most of these issues.

Fungal or Bacterial Growth

High humidity, poor ventilation or unclean substrate can lead to infections. Remove any mouldy substrate promptly, improve airflow and keep up with regular enclosure hygiene.

Any newly purchased tarantula should spend 4 to 6 weeks in a separate quarantine enclosure before being introduced near any other animals in your home, the same standard Birdsville recommends across all new animals, giving you time to confirm it’s settling in and feeding normally.

Spot clean uneaten food and waste regularly, partial substrate replacement is preferred over a full change so established burrows aren’t disturbed unnecessarily. Wash your hands before and after handling or enclosure maintenance, use gloves or forceps when handling where possible, and keep all chemicals well away from the enclosure.

Toxic & Dangerous Hazards

Pesticide residue on feeder insects is the main dietary risk, only use insects from a trusted, pesticide free source. Beyond diet, keep the enclosure away from aerosols, air fresheners, scented candles, insect sprays used elsewhere in the home and any strong cleaning chemicals, tarantulas are highly sensitive to airborne toxins even in small amounts.

Visual sexing isn’t reliable in a juvenile tarantula. The most accurate method is examining a moulted exoskeleton, females show a visible spermatheca near the underside book lungs, while mature males lack this and instead develop enlarged, bulbous pedipalps and a hook on the first pair of legs used during mating. Because of this, most keepers can’t confirm sex confidently until a tarantula is closer to maturity.

Record Keeping

Keep a log of feeding dates, prey type, moulting events, substrate changes and general behaviour. Records make it far easier to track health over time and catch a genuine issue early rather than after it’s become a real problem.

For a short absence, make sure the water supply and substrate moisture are adequate before you leave. For longer periods, arrange a knowledgeable carer to check water, food and enclosure conditions, and leave written instructions if they haven’t kept a tarantula before.

Use a secure, ventilated container lined with substrate and a hide for any trip. Keep the journey calm and stable, away from temperature extremes, and avoid unnecessary handling along the way.

Keeping tarantulas individually is the safest and most recommended approach, even a male and female outside deliberate breeding usually ends badly for one of them. Keep the enclosure well away from cats, dogs or birds, which may stress or harm a tarantula given the chance.

How often should I feed my tarantula?

It depends on age, juveniles generally do well on 2 to 3 feeds a week to support faster growth, while adults only need 1 to 2 feeds a week. Always remove any uneaten prey the next day rather than leaving it in the enclosure, since it can stress or even injure a tarantula that isn’t hunting.

Why has my tarantula stopped eating?

Refusing food is usually completely normal, most commonly it signals an upcoming moult, when tarantulas often fast for days or even weeks beforehand. Provided your tarantula still looks otherwise healthy and hydrated, this is nothing to worry about, just hold off on offering fresh prey until it’s clearly active again.

Is it normal for my tarantula to flick hairs at me?

Yes, flicking urticating hairs is a natural defence when a tarantula feels threatened, rather than a sign of aggression toward you specifically. It usually means handling has gone on a little too long or the tarantula was startled, easing off on handling and giving it space is the right response.

How do I know if my tarantula is about to moult?

A dulled, darker colour, reduced appetite and reduced activity are the classic early signs, sometimes paired with a bald patch on the abdomen for hairier species. Once you notice these signs, avoid handling and disturbing the enclosure entirely until the moult is complete and the new exoskeleton has hardened.

What size tank does a pet tarantula need?

Roughly 3 to 4 times the tarantula’s leg span is the standard guide, applied to floor space for ground dwelling species or height for climbing species. Oversized enclosures can stress a tarantula and make it harder for it to find food, so bigger isn’t automatically better here.

Recommended Vets and Links

Vet visits are rarely needed for tarantulas given how few health issues they run into with correct care, but if something does come up, the following exotic focused practices can help: SASH (Small Animal Specialist Hospital), 02 9190 6806, Level 1, 1 Richardson Place, North Ryde, sashvets.com; The Wild Vet, 1300 945 3838, 22A Bridge Road, Glebe, thewildvet.com.au; SERV, 02 9436 4884, 57 63 Herbert St, Artarmon, exoticsvet.com.au; Southern Cross, 02 9516 0234, 60 Princes Hwy, St Peters, southerncrossvet.com.au; Carlingford Animal Hospital, 02 9871 6036, 772 Pennant Hills Road, Carlingford, birdhealth.com.au; The Unusual Pet Vets, 02 9319 6111, 995 Bourke Street, Waterloo NSW 2017, unusualpetvets.com.au; Vetafarm, vetafarm.com.au.

Visit Us

Ready to bring one home? Visit our Tarantulas for Sale Sydney page to see what’s currently available, or head into Birdsville at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria to see them in person and get properly set up. If you’re after another low maintenance invertebrate, our How to Care for Pet Stick Insects page is worth a look too.