Tropical Fish Aquarium

Tropical Fish for Sale Sydney

This article will cover all the basics you need to know before and during setting up your freshwater tropical fish tank.

For quality tropical freshwater fish and supplies look no further than Petsville we do have a unique and unusually deep aquarium set up with very large sumps in fact bigger than most full aquariums to keep our tropical fish in tip top condition.  Our team strive to supply the healthiest stocked fish as humanely possible. The majority of freshwater fish we stock are community fish so they will do very well in community tanks and aquariums.

variety of fish tanks
variety of fish tanks and a plant tank

Tropical Aquariums for Sale

We have quite a range of tropical aquariums for sale with all the products you need to keep them happy and healthy.  We have different sizes and shapes depending on which type of fish or size set up you are looking to get.

How to condition tap water…………..

A bit of preparation will greatly improve your chances of success.  Setting up your tank 2 weeks earlier and letting the water cycle before buying your fish is the best way to start a new aquarium.

 

tropical fish on display for sale
tropical fish available at Petsvlle

We stock a variety of freshwater tropical fish, snails, crustaceans and plants. Including but not limited to  A wide range of tetras, suckerfish, loaches, goldfsh, live bearers such as plattys, molly and guppies, angelfish, silver sharks, red tail sharks, gourami’s, barbs, catfish, cichlids, fighting fish and more.

 

Checklist of what you need in starting your aquarium.

 

Suitable sized tank:  Think ahead in terms of adding fish in the future, max growth of selected fish and leaving space for ornaments/hides/plants

Gravel:  Be sure to get enough gravel to adequately cover the bottom of tank to allow ornaments/plants to be secured.  Roughly 1 inch minimum is suitable.

Filtration: Many available at Petsville, some tanks come with them already, insure you get a filter suitable for your size tank or larger.  Filters will come with recommended liters (if sized 1000, 2000, etc. simply divide by 10 liters)

Lighting: a very valuable part of any aquarium.  Lights will make the fish colors pop, add life to the décor and help promote plant/fish health.

Aeration/bubbler: Adding an airline system to your tank will help oxygenate your ecosystem.  This will result in cleaner water and healthy fish. Can also be used to create stunning features.

Heater/thermometer: a must have for tropical set ups, packaging will indicate tank size suitable for heater.  Thermometer is essential to regulate the heater temperature.

Gravel vacuum.  A must have this Reduces cleaning time whilst increasing water quality.  Easily suctions debris and waste out of gravel out of tank into a bucket.
Fish net: Used to move or remove fish or anything else when doing tank maintenance.

Food: Essential ask our Petsville team on what options you have from flakes, pellets and frozen feed.

Water conditioner:  Necessary when adding any tap water to any aquarium as it removes chlorine and metals from the water.  Fish will die in straight tap water as it will burn their gills and they will asphyxiate.

Bio starter: Aquariums must have beneficial bacteria to function inside the filter media.  Bacteria species added by this, and similar product are critical parts of the nitrogen cycle.

Waste controller.  This additive will convert waste such as food & feces into positive bacteria.  This minimizes cleaning and increases tank health.

Salt: Promotes fish health by improving gill function making it easier for fish to breath.  Salt also adds electrolytes as a lack of electrolytes can cause serious health issues in fish, especially goldfish.
Before your fish arrive Have a holding pail (glass, plastic, or stainless steel) or an aquarium set up and filled with conditioned tap water before receiving your fish (you must chemically treat all Sydney tap water to remove chloramines to make it safe for animals that have gills

 

aquarium decorations and ornaments on disply
aquarium hides, ornaments and decorations

Immediate care and handling When your fish arrive.

There may be temperature, chemical and bacterial differences between the water in our Petsville store and your local tap water, you must gradually transition your fish from one to the other. This process is termed acclimation. Do not delay in doing this. Acclimation Cut open the top of the bag and roll the top down about 3 turns to make a flotation collar, then float the open bag of fish in the holding tank or aquarium. After at least 10 minutes remove and discard about ¼ of the water from the bag and replace it with water from the holding tank or aquarium. Wait 15 minutes and repeat the above step. Wait another 15 minutes, then repeat again. After another 15 minutes, carefully remove the fish from the bag with a net and place them in the holding tank or aquarium. Discard the water in the shipping bag by flushing it down a sink.

Cleaning anything that goes into the aquarium this includes gravel, driftwood, ornaments.  Gravel is best cleaned in a bucket with a hose, mix the gravel around in the bucket with the hose on until the gravel is clear.

Filling the aquarium with tap water after you have placed in the gravel, it’s important that you do so slowly to not stir up any sediment that has been left in the gravel.

 

 

FAQs

What should I do with the water in the shipping bag? Discard all the shipping water by flushing it down a sink with tap water. It contains waste products given off by the fish during shipment and you should not add it to your aquarium.

Why is the shipping water blue? This is due to a medication we add to the water to reduce shipping stress on the fish.

The fish are probably hungry, so I should feed them, right? The fish need time to recover and become familiar with their new environment. Wait a day before feeding them.

How much food should I feed the fish? Feed the fish only as much as they can eat in a few minutes. Don’t feed them more than once a day. Any food that the fish do not eat may become food for bacteria. Too many bacteria can deplete the water’s oxygen content, stressing the fish and other animals in the aquarium.

How do I know if my fish are healthy? A healthy fish is active, keeping its fins erect and spread. A diseased fish may have drooping fins or fins tightly pressed against its body, spends a lot of time hiding, have fuzzy patches growing on itself, or long streamers or slime that trail from its fins or body. Observe your fish for any changes in behavior or appearance over time. Remove a diseased fish before it transmits its disease to others. Sometimes one fish bully another, causing the bullied fish to hide even though it is healthy. Place the fish in different aquariums if possible.