The Jungle Carpet Python (Morelia spilota cheynei) is native to the rainforests of northeastern Australia, particularly in Queensland. These pythons are semi-arboreal, meaning they spend time both climbing in trees and moving on the forest floor, making them engaging pets for keepers with some reptile experience. Jungle Carpet Pythons typically reach lengths of 1.5–2 metres, with some individuals exceeding 2.5 metres in captivity. They can live 20–25 years when properly cared for, so owning one is a long-term commitment. With their bold patterns and generally calm disposition when handled regularly, they make great pets for dedicated reptile enthusiasts.
Basic Information
In the wild, they live in warm, humid rainforests and woodland edges, often sheltering in tree hollows or rock crevices. These pythons are primarily nocturnal, becoming most active at dusk, in captivity, they may also be seen basking under heat sources during the day. Jungle Carpet Pythons are known for their intelligence and climbing ability, so providing vertical space and hiding spots is essential. This species is best suited to intermediate to experienced reptile keepers due to its adult size, strength, enclosure requirements, and need for appropriate environmental management. While Jungle Carpet Pythons are generally calm and can become very tolerant of handling with regular, respectful interaction, they require a secure, well-planned enclosure with suitable climbing opportunities and ongoing husbandry. Adults typically reach 1.5–2 metres in length and can live for 20 years or more in captivity with proper care. Their active nature and semi-arboreal behaviours make them a rewarding species for keepers who are prepared for the long-term commitment involved in responsible python care.
Essential Supplies
Carry Enclosure
A sturdy, escape proof and well-ventilated carry enclosure is mandatory for all repltiles leaving Birdsville. Carry enclosures are essential for any reptile transportation.
Enclosure
Adults should be housed in a secure, lockable enclosure of at least 120 × 60 × 60 cm, though larger enclosures allow more room for movement and environmental enrichment. The enclosure must be escape‑proof, well ventilated, and free of sharp edges or gaps. For hatchlings or juveniles, smaller housing is acceptable initially, but upgrades will be necessary as the snake grows.
Substrate
Use a reptile‑safe substrate such as aspen, coconut fibre, cypress mulch, or paper towels. Avoid dusty or aromatic materials like pine or cedar. Spot-clean daily, and replace the substrate fully every 2–3 months (or more often if soiled).
Food
Children’s pythons diet consist of frozen-thawed rodents, prey size should be no larger than the widest diameter of the snake’s body; oversized prey items increase the risk of regurgitation.
Heating and Thermostat
To allow thermoregulation, you’ll need a reliable heat source (e.g. heat mat, ceramic heat emitter, or overhead radiant panel) controlled by a good thermostat. Maintain the warm zone at 30–32 °C, and the cooler end around 24–26 °C. Nighttime temperatures should not drop below ~20–22 °C. Always monitor with accurate digital thermometers. Replace any heat device if it malfunctions—ideally every 12–24 months or sooner.
UVB Lighting
Children’s Pythons do not require strong UVB lighting, but a low‑output UVB (2–5 %) can be beneficial for overall health and calcium metabolism. Use the UVB light for 10–12 hours daily. Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months, even if the lamp still glows, because UV output degrades over time.
Hides
Provide at least two secure hides—one in the warm area and one in the cooler region of the enclosure. These should be snug and stable to help the snake feel safe. Clean them regularly, and replace them if they become cracked, moldy, or damaged.
Water Bowl
Offer a shallow but stable water dish large enough for the snake to soak. Change the water every 1–2 days and disinfect at least weekly to prevent bacterial growth. Always ensure the bowl is stable to prevent tipping.
Enrichment and Climbing
Include branches, logs, rocks, or textured surfaces to encourage natural behaviours and exploration. All items should be cleaned periodically and securely anchored so they don’t shift or fall, risking injury.
Equipment
Feeding tongs are essential for safely offering prey without risking your fingers. Use separate items (or thoroughly disinfect) for different enclosures if you have more than one snake. Replace feeding tools if they become bent, corroded, or worn. Snake hook
Reptile Safe Disinfectant
You’ll need reptile-safe disinfectants, scrub brushes or sponges (dedicated for reptile use), gloves, and containers for soaking hides or décor. Avoid harsh chemicals (e.g. bleach without proper rinsing). Replace any cleaning tools that degrade or retain odor.
Housing
Jungle Carpet Pythons require a spacious, secure enclosure that accommodates their semi-arboreal nature. The enclosure should provide both horizontal and vertical space, allowing the snake to climb, explore, shelter, and thermoregulate. Juveniles may initially be housed in smaller enclosures to assist with monitoring and security but should be upgraded as they grow. All enclosure furnishings should be stable and regularly checked for damage or hazards. Tip: If the snake regularly occupies most of the enclosure length or can stretch along multiple sides of the enclosure, an upgrade may be required.
Environment
A thermal gradient should be maintained to allow voluntary thermoregulation. The warm area should generally be maintained around 32–34°C, with a cooler area approximately 24–26°C. Night-time temperatures may decrease naturally but should remain within a safe range suitable for the species. Humidity should generally be maintained at moderate levels, approximately 50–60%, with slight increases during shedding periods if required. Good ventilation is essential to prevent excessive moisture accumulation and respiratory problems. Environmental conditions should be monitored regularly using appropriate measuring equipment.
Diet & Feeding
Jungle Carpet Pythons are carnivorous and should be offered appropriately sized frozen-thawed prey items. Prey should generally be no larger than the widest part of the snake’s body. Feeding frequency depends on age, size, growth rate, activity level, and body condition. Juveniles generally require more frequent meals than adults, while mature snakes require fewer meals to maintain a healthy body condition. Overfeeding should be avoided as obesity is a common husbandry-related issue in captive pythons. Fresh drinking water should always be available, and uneaten prey should be removed promptly.
Behaviour & Handling
Jungle Carpet Pythons are generally intelligent, alert snakes that can become accustomed to regular, respectful handling. Young animals may initially be shy or defensive but often settle with appropriate care and patience. Handling should be calm and controlled, allowing the snake to move naturally while providing full support of its body. Handling should be avoided immediately after feeding and during significant shedding periods to minimise stress and reduce the risk of regurgitation. Signs of stress may include excessive hiding, defensive behaviour, reduced appetite, or repeated attempts to escape. Jungle Carpet Pythons are solitary animals and should generally be housed individually.
Common Health Concerns
Respiratory Disease
Respiratory infections are one of the most frequent issues in captive pythons and are usually caused by poor temperature regulation or overly damp enclosures. Signs include wheezing, clicking sounds, open-mouth breathing, and mucus or bubbles around the nostrils. These infections can escalate quickly and require prompt veterinary attention, as they often indicate bacterial involvement.
Stomatitis (Mouth Infection)
Mouth rot is a bacterial infection that causes inflammation and ulceration of the gums and oral cavity. Affected snakes may show signs such as swelling around the mouth, discoloured or bloody gums, and thick saliva or pus. If left untreated, the infection can spread to the jawbone or bloodstream. Good hygiene and prompt vet care are essential to treat this condition.
External Parasites (Mites)
Snake mites are tiny external parasites that appear as small black or red moving dots on the skin, eyes, or around the enclosure. Infestations can cause irritation, restlessness, excessive soaking, and even lead to anaemia or disease transmission. Mites must be treated quickly using reptile-safe products and a thorough deep clean of the enclosure.
Shedding Issues (Dysecdysis)
Incomplete or problematic shedding, especially stuck shed around the eyes or tail, is often linked to incorrect humidity levels or dehydration. Providing a proper humidity gradient and rough surfaces in the enclosure helps facilitate complete sheds. Mild cases can be managed at home, while persistent problems may require vet support.
Internal Parasites
Though harder to detect without veterinary testing, internal parasites can affect a snake’s digestion and overall health. Symptoms may include regurgitation, weight loss despite eating, and runny or abnormal stools. Fecal exams are the best way to confirm a parasite load, which can then be treated with prescribed medication.
Regurgitation
Regurgitation can be caused by improper temperatures, stress, handling too soon after feeding, or underlying illness. If a snake regurgitates more than once, it should be assessed by a reptile veterinarian, and husbandry conditions should be reviewed to ensure they are optimal.
Thermal Burns
Thermal burns can occur when snakes gain direct access to unprotected heating equipment or when heating devices malfunction. Burns may range from mild skin damage to severe tissue injury and infection. All heating equipment should be appropriately installed and controlled by a thermostat to minimise risk.
Injury
Injuries may result from enclosure hazards, unstable furnishings, transport incidents, prey-related injuries, or accidental trauma. Signs may include cuts, abrasions, swelling, bruising, or abnormal movement. Enclosures should be maintained in a safe condition and injuries monitored closely for signs of infection.
Health, Hygiene & Safety
Good hygiene practices are essential for maintaining reptile health and reducing disease risks. Hands should be washed before and after handling reptiles, enclosure equipment, or waste. Waste should be removed regularly, water containers cleaned frequently, and enclosure maintenance performed using reptile-safe cleaning products. Snakes should always be handled responsibly, with full body support provided and appropriate precautions taken around children and other animals.
Record Keeping
It’s important to keep a log of:
- feeding dates
- prey size
- shedding cycles
- weight
- enclosure cleaning
- any health concerns
Maintaining a detailed record log for your python is crucial for monitoring its long-term health and wellbeing. By noting down feeding dates, prey sizes, shedding cycles, weight measurements, and behavioural observations, you can quickly spot any deviations from normal patterns—such as reduced appetite, irregular shedding, or weight loss—that may signal emerging health issues. Accurate records also help you fine-tune care routines, like adjusting feeding frequency or humidity levels, based on your snake’s individual needs. In addition, if veterinary care becomes necessary, having a detailed history of your python’s care and any previous health concerns allows the veterinarian to diagnose and treat problems more effectively.
Holiday Care
Owners remain responsible for their reptile’s welfare while away. A reliable person with appropriate reptile experience should be arranged to provide care when required. Written instructions should include feeding requirements, temperature expectations, cleaning routines, and emergency contacts. Clean water and suitable environmental conditions must be maintained during any absence.
Transportation
Jungle Carpet Pythons should be transported in a secure, escape-proof container that protects the animal from injury, temperature extremes, and unnecessary stress. Transport containers should be appropriately ventilated and free from loose items that could cause injury. Exposure to direct sunlight, excessive heat, cold temperatures, and unnecessary handling should be avoided.
Compatibility with Other Animals
Jungle Carpet Pythons are solitary reptiles and should generally be housed individually. Co-housing with other reptiles is not recommended due to risks including stress, injury, competition, disease transmission, and predation. Interactions with household pets such as cats and dogs should be prevented or carefully supervised, as other animals may pose a risk to the snake.
Licensing
A Native Animal Keeper Licence is required to own a Jungle Python in NSW and must be obtained through Service NSW prior to purchase. All reptiles must be captive-bred and sourced from licensed breeders or registered pet stores. Wild collection and release of captive reptiles is illegal. Keepers must comply with the NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles, including housing, welfare and record-keeping requirements.
Helpful Reptile Keeping Links
NSW Code of Practice for the Private Keeping of Reptiles: https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/publications/code-practice-private-keeping-reptiles
Understanding the licences: https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/licences-and-permits/wildlife-licences/native-animals-as-pets/reptile-keeper-licences
Applying for a native animal keeper licence: https://www.service.nsw.gov.au/transaction/apply-for-a-native-animal-keeper-licence
