How to Care for Pet Mice

Mice as Pets

Their average lifespan is 1.5 to 3 years. Mice will enjoy having their face massaged and need to be handled frequently to maintain good behaviour. They do not have good eyesight but have an excellent sense of smell and hearing. Mice are not always social, and it’s okay to just have one mouse, depending on the temperament of your mouse. Male mice can fight, so keep this in mind when housing more than one together. Having two mice is no more work than having only one, and they can live in the same cage. Young mice can often be a bit jumpy by nature, but with a little bit of handling it doesn’t take them long to tame up and bond to their owner.

Enclosures

Pet mice stay quite small, but they’re active and social little animals, so choosing the right enclosure is still essential. As a rough guide (not a strict minimum), around 60cm wide x 30cm deep x 40cm high works well. There’s no such thing as an enclosure that’s too big, and mice will use every centimetre of space they’re given. They need room to move, climb and explore, plus space for enrichment items such as toys, a food bowl, water bottle, salt lick, hammocks, tunnels, an exercise wheel and cosy sleeping areas. A well-set-up cage keeps your mouse active, stimulated and happy. We have a huge selection of different mouse enclosures in store on our upstairs level, including great value specials when you purchase your mouse together with a complete setup.

When selecting a cage, always consider the bar spacing. Baby mice can squeeze through gaps in some larger wire cages designed for adults, and mice generally need narrower bar spacing than rats given their smaller size. If you’re unsure which enclosure is suitable, our team can help you choose the right option, and you’re welcome to test the bar spacing in store to make sure it’s safe and secure for your new pet.

Enclosure Set-Up

When setting up your mouse enclosure, it’s best to deck the cage out thinking in levels. On the top level, have some hanging toys. The middle level should have a hide, maybe some wooden bird perches, a drink bottle, a salt lick and a ladder. The bottom level is best for tunnels to run through, food bowls, chew toys and a mouse wheel. Mice need a hide in the enclosure to feel safe, as they like enclosed areas. Adding some nesting material is great for them to build a nest.

Best Substrate for Mice

Mice can be susceptible to respiratory conditions, which is why we recommend hemp, Kaytee bedding, dust-extracted wood shavings or Breeders Choice all dust free and very absorbent. Avoid pine and cedar shavings, as these contain aromatic oils that can be harmful to a mouse’s respiratory health. Bedding depth can be around 5 to 15cm — the thicker the bedding, the less often it needs to be changed, though this also depends on the enclosure you choose.

Toys and Enrichment

Mice are curious and active creatures who love to explore, forage and gnaw. They’ll benefit from a variety of toys such as cardboard tubes and boxes, tunnels, climbing ropes and branches, and foraging toys that hide treats to encourage natural behaviours. A solid-surface exercise wheel (at least 8 inches, not a wire wheel) is also a great addition, giving them a safe way to burn off energy. Check the bird and reptile area too — bolt perches, reptile hides and ladders make excellent mouse toys. Toys also help keep their teeth trim, which is very important. Without them, it’s only a matter of time before the teeth overgrow, resulting in expensive vet bills or worse. Always keep their toys clean and replace any broken ones.

Diet for Mice

A proper diet is essential for your mouse’s long-term health and wellbeing. Mice are omnivorous, meaning they eat both plant and animal material, and they generally love food and will happily eat almost anything offered to them. However, just because they’ll eat it doesn’t mean it’s good for them. A high-quality mouse pellet or balanced mix should make up the majority of your mouse’s diet, with treats, fruits and vegetables offered in moderation alongside it.

At Birdsville, we recommend and stock premium options such as Vetafarm Rodent Origins, Selective Rat Pellets and our own Rat & Mouse Gourmet mix, part of our Small Animal Blend range and made fresh in store. It’s a wholesome combination of pellets, wheat, grey stripe sunflower, oats, cracked corn, sorghum, white French millet, safflower, pumpkin seeds, rolled oats, red lentils, green split peas, carrot, coconut, banana chips and almonds. Giving your mouse real variety and enrichment in every scoop. These quality diets are formulated with balanced vitamins, minerals and amino acids to support long-term health and vitality, and are extrusion cooked for improved digestibility and palatability.

We recommend avoiding supermarket or low-quality commercial mouse foods, as these often contain fillers, artificial additives, preservatives and waste products. Some mixes may include cheap filler food such as hard-to-digest alfalfa pellets or excessive seeds with limited nutritional value. If you decide to use a lower-quality food, we suggest supplementing your mouse’s water with Small Animal Vitamins to help ensure they receive essential nutrients.

Fruits & Veggie Guide

Fruits

Strawberries, kiwi fruit, banana, pear, apple, orange, watermelon, rockmelon, papaya, raisins, tomato, nectarine, peach, plum, honeydew melon, mango, blueberries, and apricot.

Vegetables

Pumpkin, zucchini, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, carrots, celery, sweet potato, cucumber, spinach, romaine lettuce, squash, mustard greens, collard greens, alfalfa sprouts, asparagus, and fennel.

Protein & Treats

Cooked chicken (including soft bones), beef, tuna, salmon, oysters, shrimp, eggs, and small amounts of liver as whole protein sources; plain cooked rice or pasta, oatmeal, rice cakes, small pieces of cheese, dog biscuits, plain baby food, and a small amount of soy milk as occasional treats.

Avoid Entirely

Chocolate (no amount is safe) mice metabolise theobromine far more slowly than larger animals, so it builds to toxic levels), excessive cheese, peanut butter (choking risk), dried corn, iceberg lettuce, orange juice or peel, blue cheese dressing, licorice, rhubarb, potato skins, green or unripe potatoes, poppy seeds, processed junk food, red cabbage and artichoke (both can cause gas).

Their dry food can be placed in a food dispenser or a heavy ceramic dish that won’t tip over, which limits opportunity for faecal and urine contamination of the food. Providing a balanced staple diet, fresh water daily and healthy fresh food in moderation will help ensure your pet mouse lives a long, happy and healthy life. If you’re ever unsure about a particular food, our Birdsville team is always happy to assist.

Providing Water to Your Mice

Fresh water is very important as many pet rodents presented as “sick” are actually just dehydrated. Fresh water should be made constantly available and kept free from contamination. Water is best provided in bottle drinkers, available in store at Birdsville. The tubes can become clogged with food debris, so check them if the water level hasn’t changed recently.

Mineral Supplements and Vitamins

Salt licks and mineral licks are important for your mouse’s health and wellbeing. The need depends on diet, as some quality produce and good diets simply lack a high enough salt content depending on where the produce is grown. Salt and minerals are necessary in a mouse’s diet but must be consumed in moderation, which your mouse will instinctively know when their body needs it. A salt lick aids digestion, muscles, nerves and fluid regulation.

Parasite Control

Spray your mouse with mite and lice spray every 3 months. Pests are very easily transmitted, even if you don’t have other pets. While rare, mice can contract fleas; if this does occur, the safest method is a flea shampoo or powder along with a complete wash of their cage and bedding.

Handling Your Pet Mouse

Mice are small and quick, so always handle them over a low surface in case they jump or wriggle free. Scoop your mouse up gently with both hands rather than grabbing from above, and never pick it up by the tip of the tail. Support its body fully. Young mice will need plenty of time to eat and rest, so keep handling sessions short at first. Handling your mouse gently and regularly will help it get used to your scent and become more comfortable being held over time. See our website, Facebook and Instagram for more tips and videos.

Teeth Health

Mice’s teeth grow constantly throughout their lives, and if they are not fed an appropriate diet and given things to chew on, teeth will overgrow. Teeth can dig into the sides of their face and make them unable to chew normally. Without proper attention, overgrown teeth can cause serious trauma, anorexia, infections, pain, and even death from the inability to chew and swallow. To avoid these problems, always have a wooden toy for them to chew on in their space.

Hygiene

Because mice live in such close contact with their litter and bedding, these must be kept clean and free from toxins. Cleaning your mouse’s cage regularly, with the right cage cleaner, is essential to avoiding unnecessary health problems. We recommend a full cage clean at least once a week, with spot cleaning in between as needed. More frequent cleaning may be needed if you have multiple mice. Ammonia fumes from urine cause irritation in the nasal passage, which makes them more susceptible to infection. If your cage gets stinky, you’ve left it too long.

Health Issues or Changes in Your Mouse

If you ever notice a change in behaviour or appearance. if they are off their food, quiet, lethargic, wheezing, runny nose, runny eyes, drooling, or skinny it’s worth taking note.

Cancer and Tumours

Cancer and tumours are fairly common in mice, partly because the original breeding stock for domestic mice comes from lines used in cancer research. These can often be fatal without veterinary intervention.

Coat Dandruff or Fur Loss

Coat dandruff or fur loss can be a sign your mouse has mites, or less commonly fleas. A regular mite and lice treatment plus a multivitamin should get their coat looking good again.

Weight Loss

Weight loss could be caused by overgrown teeth or a whole host of other reasons, including cancer, neurological disease, virus, bacteria, starvation, trauma, stomach ulcers, injury, kidney failure, tumours, dental disease, poisoning or respiratory disease, among others.

Sudden Death Syndrome

Small animals are more susceptible to sudden death syndrome. There are many possible reasons this can happen, including fright, being spooked, heart attack, stroke or unknown causes. Often when an animal passes from sudden death, a full necropsy from a vet will come back showing no clear reason. Sudden death can occur with any animal, especially small ones. No one can guarantee the life of any living creature tomorrow. By following this guide, you give your pet the best chance possible at a happy, healthy life.

Visual Health Checks

A visual health check is a great skill for any mouse owner to have, and can increase your ability to spot if your mouse isn’t 100%. Start with a pat from head to tail. If you feel prominent ribs and bones, the mouse is skinny, which is a red flag. Check your mouse’s eyes, nose and mouth for any discharge or mucus, and make sure the eyes are clear. We stock some basic medications, but we aren’t vets — our team is experienced with mice and skilled at visual health checks, but for anything that needs proper testing, especially asymptomatic issues, see the recommended vets below.

Sexing Your Mouse

Please be aware these animals are not DNA sexed. While we may give an opinion on sex, and we’re quite accurate, this isn’t a guarantee, as young mice can be hard to sex.

Don’t hesitate to come and see us in store if you have any concerns or questions, and bring your mouse for us to see. It doesn’t matter if the mouse came from somewhere else, we’re happy to help.

Boarding

Boarding is available throughout the year – visit Petsville Hotel (petsvillehotel.com) to book your stay.