Bringing home a new guinea pig? As Sydney’s small animal specialists, we’ve put together this guide to cover everything you need for guinea pig care, from set up and diet through to health and handling. These animals are incredibly social, playful little personalities that truly shine when they have a friend by their side. We recommend keeping two of the same sex, as pairs thrive together and provide each other with companionship and confidence. Whether you choose boys or girls, both make fantastic, affectionate pets, and two boys or two girls raised together can live happily side by side for life. Watching them interact, popcorn with excitement and chat to each other is part of the fun. For more tips, care advice and to see our adorable guinea pigs, check out our website, Facebook and Instagram.

Quick Facts

Scientific name: Cavia porcellus
Also known as: Cavy
Adult size: Females 700g to 900g, males 900g to 1200g
Lifespan: 4 to 8 years, with many reaching 5 to 6 years with good care
Diet type: Herbivore
Minimum enclosure: 0.7 square metres (7.5 sq ft) for one; at least 120cm by 60cm (around 1 square metre) recommended for a pair, bigger always better
Temperature range: 18 to 24°C, out of direct sun and drafts
Experience level: Great for first time owners

On This Page

Guinea Pigs as Pets
Essential Supplies for Guinea Pigs
Housing & Enclosure Setup
Diet & Feeding
Providing Water to Your Guinea Pigs
Mineral Supplements and Vitamins
Behaviour & Handling
Training
Common Health Issues
Parasite Control
Vaccination & Desexing
Health, Hygiene & Safety
Toxic & Dangerous Hazards
General Care and Grooming
Sexing
Record Keeping
Holiday Care & Boarding
Transportation
Compatibility with Other Animals
FAQ
Recommended Vets and Links for Guinea Pig Owners

Guinea Pigs as Pets

Guinea pigs are friendly, easygoing companions that suit most households, including families with children who are taught to handle them gently. They’re quick to bond with regular, gentle interaction, and as highly social animals, they do best in pairs or small groups in a calm environment where they feel safe.

Housing & Enclosure

Enclosure/Hutch: chat to our staff about the right size for your guinea pig. We stock both indoor and outdoor options.

Hides: at least one shelter or hide to retreat to, more if you’re keeping a pair or group.

Litter Tray: useful if you’re litter training (see Training below).

Bedding & Substrate

Straw, sawdust, paper litter, mini hemp or wood litter all work well. Avoid using hay as substrate. It’s food, not bedding, and using it as both can lead to health issues.

Water & Feeding

Drink Bottle: keeps water clean all day, since it can’t be tipped over or fouled the way a bowl can.

Bowls: choose one sturdy and heavy enough not to get knocked over.

Hay Feeder: keeps hay clean and off the ground.

Guinea Pig Pellets: a quality vitamin C fortified pellet such as Petsville Premium RGP Pellets, Selective, Peckish or Cavy Origins.

Hay: oaten, ryegrass, lucerne, alfalfa, timothy or pasture hay, making up around 80% of the diet.

Treats: great for training and bonding, no more than around 5% of the diet.

Supplements

Salt Lick / Mineral Block: essential salts and minerals, including calcium, for healthy teeth, digestion and bones.

Vitamin C Supplement: worth adding if your pellets don’t already include it, or if they’re more than 90 days old.

Synbiotic/Probiotic: supports digestive health when given daily.

Enrichment & Toys

At least 4 to 6 chew and play toys, rotated regularly. Tunnels and a tent or hide for play. A play pen for supervised time outside the enclosure.

Hygiene & Cleaning

Hutch Cleaner: CSI, Vetafarm, F10 and Aristopet are all safe options for guinea pigs, gentle enough for regular use. Regular household disinfectant can be toxic to them, so avoid it.

Lice & Mange Spray: recommended two weeks after bringing your guinea pig home, then every 6 weeks ongoing.

First Aid & Grooming

Nail clippers or grooming tools. Guinea pig shampoo or dry bath for the occasional clean. First aid basics such as Spark, Triple C, F10 barrier ointment and a heat lamp for warming a sick or recovering guinea pig.

Transport

A carry cage, essential from day one for vet trips or anywhere else your guinea pig needs to go.

What You May Consider: a harness and lead for outdoor adventures, spare bowls and accessories, and a bed for the guinea pig that loves its comfort.

Everything above, and more, is available in-store, and our team is happy to help put the right combination together.

A single guinea pig needs a minimum of 0.7 square metres (around 7.5 sq ft) of floor space, but since we recommend keeping guinea pigs in pairs, aim for at least 120cm by 60cm between them, roughly 1 square metre. Bigger is always better: more room means less territorial squabbling and more space to explore. There’s no need to start baby guinea pigs in a smaller enclosure either, they can move straight into the same full sized space as the adults from day one.

Toys matter more than most new owners expect. Leaving your piggy with toys while you’re away and while they’re in their enclosure helps prevent behavioural issues down the track, such as chewing and boredom, and helps create a tamer, friendlier and happier guinea pig. Rotate toys regularly, and if one gets destroyed, that’s usually a sign they liked it and it’s time to replace it. Toys also help keep teeth trim: without them, it’s only a matter of time before teeth overgrow and lead to expensive vet bills. Barbering, where a guinea pig chews its own hair or a cage mate’s, is a boredom related habit that toys help redirect.

Keep the enclosure somewhere free from direct sun, drafts and temperature extremes, ideally in a stable range of 18 to 24°C, away from heaters, air conditioners or strong window sun.

Diet & Feeding

Guinea pigs need unlimited hay, a small daily serve of vitamin C fortified pellets, and fresh vegetables every day. Hay should make up around 80% of the diet and be available at all times, both for fibre and to keep constantly growing teeth worn down.

The daily routine: feed pellets once a day, ideally at the same time each morning. Top up hay and check the water bottle at the same time. Offer fresh vegetables once daily alongside the morning pellets, or split into a smaller portion morning and evening once your guinea pig is settled in.

Baby & Weaning, birth to around 3 weeks: babies start nibbling solid food from as young as two days old, while still nursing. Give constant access to alfalfa hay, which is higher in calcium and protein than grass hay, plus a small dish of pellets. Most are fully weaned by around 3 weeks old.

Juvenile, 3 weeks to around 6 months: growing guinea pigs need extra protein and calcium, so a junior or growth formula pellet alongside alfalfa hay is recommended. Offer around 1/8 cup of pellets daily, topping the bowl back up through the day rather than filling it to the top, alongside unlimited hay and vegetables introduced gradually.

Adult, from around 6 months: move to a timothy or grass hay based diet, still unlimited, with around 1/8 cup of adult vitamin C fortified pellets once daily and 1/2 to 1 cup of fresh vegetables split across the day. Always introduce new foods gradually to avoid digestive upset.

Fruits & Veggie Guide

Examples, not limited to.

Fruits

In moderation, due to natural sugar content: pears, apples (seeds removed), citrus, watermelon, stone fruit (pit removed), kiwi fruit, strawberries, rockmelon, banana, star fruit, pomegranate and grapes.

Vegetables

Daily, and many double as a good source of vitamin C: silver beet, sweet potato, carrot, green beans, peas, corn, capsicum, endive, broccoli, spinach, pumpkin, kale, cucumber and celery.

Treats

Hay based treats, dried herbs and small training treats are great for bonding and rewarding good behaviour, but should stay to around 5% of the overall diet.

Avoid Entirely

Chocolate, salt, avocado, onion, garlic, ginger, iceberg lettuce, processed foods, caffeine, dairy products, tea, coffee, alcohol, and anything cedar or pine based.

Providing Water to Your Guinea Pigs

Drink bottles are the most popular option, since they don’t take up floor space and sit neatly on the side of the enclosure. The bigger the bottle, the less often you’ll need to refill it. Check and top up water daily, and give the bottle a proper clean at least weekly to stop algae or bacteria building up inside it.

Mineral Supplements and Vitamins

Salt licks, mineral licks and liquid supplements help keep vitamin and mineral levels topped up, supporting digestion, muscles, nerves and fluid regulation. Your guinea pig will generally know how much salt to take from a lick on their own, so it’s a safe thing to offer.

Vitamin C deserves special attention. Unlike most rodents, guinea pigs can’t produce their own vitamin C and rely on their diet for it every day. Vitamin C in pellets also degrades quickly once milled, so if your pellets are more than around 90 days old, top up with fresh vitamin C rich vegetables daily or a liquid vitamin C supplement in their water.

Guinea pigs are expressive little animals that use a range of sounds and body language to communicate. Wheeking, a high pitched squeal, usually means they’re excited for food, while purring can be a sign of contentment when being patted or feeling relaxed. Popcorning, jumping and hopping around with excitement, is a happy, playful behaviour you’ll often see when they’re let out to explore. Chattering teeth or a low rumbling sound can be a warning sign they’re agitated or feeling threatened, so give them space if you notice this. Freezing in place is a natural response to sudden noise or movement, since guinea pigs are a prey species and stay alert to danger.

Regular, gentle handling helps your guinea pig bond with you quickly, but remember they’re new to the environment and need plenty of time to eat and rest at first. Inconsistent or infrequent handling can cause a guinea pig to become less tame over time and harder to bond with. On the other end, picking a guinea pig up too often or for too long, especially in the first few days, causes real stress. A few minutes of handling several times a day, kept calm and low-key, settles a guinea pig in far better than one long session, and helps you avoid tipping into either extreme.

Training

Many guinea pigs can be litter trained, especially if you notice they tend to toilet in one corner already. Place a shallow tray with paper based litter in that spot, using a different substrate from the rest of the enclosure, and add a little of their usual bedding to encourage use. Guinea pigs also respond well to gentle target or recall training using small treats, which helps build trust and makes handling easier over time. Be patient, since guinea pigs learn at their own pace.

Common Health Issues

Vitamin C Deficiency (Scurvy)

Because guinea pigs can’t make their own vitamin C, a shortfall in diet can lead to scurvy. Signs include lethargy, swollen or painful joints, a rough coat, loss of appetite and reluctance to move. Prevent it with daily vitamin C rich vegetables and fresh pellets, or a supplement if needed, and see a vet promptly if you notice these signs.

Overgrown Teeth

A guinea pig’s teeth grow constantly throughout their life, so plenty of hard, chewable toys and a high fibre diet are essential to keep them worn down naturally. Left unchecked, overgrown teeth are painful and can mean a costly vet visit to correct.

Mites, Mange & Lice

Guinea pigs are very susceptible to mites and mange, which can be easily transmitted even without other pets in the home. Regular preventative spray treatment (see Parasite Control below) helps keep this under control. If fleas take hold, come see us for a shampoo formulated specifically for guinea pigs, since other shampoos can irritate their sensitive skin.

Respiratory Infections

Poor ventilation, sudden temperature changes or ammonia build up from dirty bedding can all lead to respiratory illness. Watch for wheezing, laboured breathing, or discharge from the eyes or nose, and see a vet if these appear.

Bumblefoot (Pododermatitis)

Sores or lesions on the feet can develop from wire flooring or damp, dirty bedding. Solid flooring and clean, dry substrate go a long way toward preventing this.

Barbering

A guinea pig chewing its own hair or a cage mate’s is usually a sign of boredom. Enough toys and enrichment help redirect this behaviour.

Visual Health Checks

A guinea pig visual health check starts with a gentle pat from head to tail. If you can easily feel their ribs and spine, that can be a sign they’re underweight and worth acting on. Check their eyes, nose and mouth for any discharge, and make sure their coat looks clean, without bald patches or flaky skin. Keep an eye on their breathing too, it should be quiet and steady, with no wheezing. If you’re ever unsure what’s normal for your guinea pig, bring them into Birdsville and our team can show you how to do a proper visual health check. It’s a great skill for any guinea pig owner to have, and it’s always free.

Parasite Control

We recommend a 4 to 6 week quarantine period for any new guinea pig before introducing them to existing pets at home, to reduce the risk of spreading illness or parasites. Alongside quarantine, use a preventative mite and mange spray two weeks after bringing your guinea pig home, then every 6 weeks ongoing.

Vaccination & Desexing

Guinea pigs don’t require any vaccinations. Desexing is a personal choice rather than a necessity, and is worth discussing with your vet if you’re keeping males and females together. There tend to be fewer surgical complications desexing a male guinea pig than a female, but your vet can advise what’s best for your situation.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Because guinea pigs live in close contact with their bedding, it needs to be kept clean and free from toxins. Ammonia in the fumes of urine irritates the nasal passage and makes guinea pigs more susceptible to infection, so spot clean daily and do a full clean, including a substrate change and a wipe down with a pet safe disinfectant, at least once a week.

Avoid cedar or pine bedding and shavings, since the aromatic oils they release can irritate a guinea pig’s respiratory system (see the Fruits & Veggie Guide above for foods to avoid entirely). Keep essential oil diffusers, scented candles and air fresheners away from the enclosure. Many common houseplants are toxic to guinea pigs, so check with our staff before offering anything that isn’t a confirmed safe food or treat. Never leave a guinea pig in direct sun, a hot car, or anywhere temperatures swing to extremes, and always supervise time outside the enclosure around other household pets.

General Care and Grooming

Grooming needs depend on coat type: long haired guinea pigs need their coats brushed or trimmed to stop tangling, while short haired guinea pigs need far less grooming. Nails need trimming roughly every 5 months. As Birdsville’s small animal specialists, we offer a nail trimming and grooming service in-store, no bookings required, so feel free to bring your guinea pig in any time.

Please note our guinea pigs aren’t DNA sexed. Our staff are experienced at sexing them, but at a few weeks old the anatomical differences between males and females can be subtle, and it’s not unheard of for even seasoned keepers to get it wrong on a young pup. We’re happy to double check with you before you take your guinea pig home, but can’t guarantee sex on very young animals.

Record Keeping

As a prey species, guinea pigs are experts at masking illness until it’s already progressed, so a change in weight is often the very first clue something’s off. Get into the habit of popping your guinea pig on a kitchen scale weekly (more often for babies and juveniles who are still growing fast), and jot the number down along with any diet changes or vet visits. A drop of more than a few percent in a short window is worth a vet check, even if your guinea pig seems otherwise fine.

Holiday Care & Boarding

Heading away? Petsville Hotel offers boarding for guinea pigs, just book ahead since spots fill up, especially around school holidays. If you’re boarding a pair, ask about keeping them together rather than split into separate enclosures, since guinea pigs settle much better with their usual companion nearby. Pop into the shop before you go if you have any questions, or want us to take a look at your guinea pig first.

Transportation

A carry cage is essential from the moment you bring your new guinea pig home. We offer a variety of carry enclosures for guinea pigs, or you’re welcome to bring your own. When transporting your guinea pig, always use a secure, well ventilated carrier lined with soft bedding or a towel for comfort and stability. Keep the carrier out of direct sunlight and away from cold drafts, maintaining a stable, moderate temperature during travel. Adding a small amount of hay inside provides comfort and a familiar snack to reduce stress. Keep travel as calm and quiet as possible, since guinea pigs can be sensitive to loud noises and sudden movement.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Guinea pigs are gentle, social animals that thrive best with other guinea pigs, ideally in same sex pairs or small groups. They form strong bonds and love having companions to eat, rest and explore with. While they can live in homes with other pets, they should always have their own secure enclosure and only have supervised time outside it. As a prey species, guinea pigs are not suited to direct interaction with predator species such as dogs or cats, who can seriously injure or kill them if given the chance. With the right introductions and a safe set up, guinea pigs can make a wonderful addition to a multi-pet household while enjoying the company of their own kind most of all.

Do guinea pigs need to be kept in pairs?

Guinea pigs are highly social animals and do best living with at least one companion of the same sex. A lone guinea pig can become bored, withdrawn or stressed without company, so we recommend same sex pairs or small groups, with enough space and separate feeding spots so everyone gets their share.

How much space does a pair of guinea pigs need?

A single guinea pig needs a minimum of 0.7 square metres (around 7.5 square feet), but a pair should have at least 120cm by 60cm of floor space, roughly 1 square metre. Bigger is always better, especially since more room means less territorial squabbling between cage mates.

Why is vitamin C so important for guinea pigs?

Unlike most rodents, guinea pigs can’t produce their own vitamin C and need it from their diet every day. A shortfall can lead to scurvy, causing joint pain, a rough coat and low energy. Fresh vitamin C rich vegetables daily, plus a supplement if pellets are older than 90 days, keep levels topped up.

How often should a guinea pig’s enclosure be cleaned?

Spot clean soiled bedding and refresh hay and water daily, with a full clean including substrate change, and a wipe down with a pet safe disinfectant, at least once a week. Regular cleaning stops ammonia building up in the fumes of urine, which can irritate breathing and increase the risk of infection.

Can guinea pigs be litter trained?

Yes, many guinea pigs can learn to use a litter tray, especially if you notice they tend to toilet in one corner already. Place a shallow tray with paper based litter in that spot, add a little of their usual bedding to encourage use, and be patient, since guinea pigs take training at their own pace.

Can guinea pigs live with rabbits or other pets?

We don’t recommend housing guinea pigs with rabbits. Rabbits can carry bacteria that makes guinea pigs sick, and a rabbit’s powerful kick can seriously injure a guinea pig. Guinea pigs do best with their own kind, and should always be kept separate from predator species like cats and dogs.

Ready to bring one of our guinea pigs home? Take a look at our Guinea Pigs for Sale Sydney page, or come visit us in-store at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria NSW 2015. If you’re weighing up guinea pigs against another small pet, our How to Care for Rabbits guide is a good comparison to read as well.

Southern Cross 02 9516 0234 St Peters

SASH 02 8913 400 Alexandria

SERV 02 9436 4884 Artarmon

Unusual pet gets 02 9319 6111 Waterloo The Wild Vet 1300 9453 838 Glebe

Carlingford Animal Hospital 02 9871 6036 Carlingford