Written by the Birdsville team. Last updated November 2026.

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are one of the most loved birds in Australia. They’re clever, cuddly, funny and full of personality. They’re also extremely noisy, possibly the loudest pet bird you can own, so make sure your neighbours are comfortable with plenty of noise before you bring one home. This Sulphur Crested Cockatoo care guide comes from the bird specialists at Birdsville, 684 Botany Road, Alexandria NSW 2015, who have been caring for birds since 1985. It covers everything from the first few days at home through to diet, housing, training and health.

To care for a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, you need a large macaw-sized cage, a diet built on pellets and a measured amount of seed with fresh vegetables every day, and several hours of time and attention daily. You also need to plan for a loud bird that commonly lives 40 to 70 years.

Hand Raised Sulphur Crested Cockatoo

Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Quick Facts

  • Scientific name: Cacatua galerita
  • Other names: Sulphur Crested Cocky, Greater Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, White Cockatoo
  • Native range: northern and eastern Australia and Tasmania
  • Adult size: 45 to 55cm long, including the crest
  • Adult weight: roughly 800g to 1kg
  • Lifespan: commonly 40 to 70 years in captivity, with some birds recorded reaching 80
  • Diet type: herbivore (seed, pellets, vegetables, fruit and nuts)
  • Minimum cage size: 91cm long, 61cm wide and 122cm high, and bigger is always better
  • Temperature: comfortable at normal household temperatures, kept away from draughts and direct heaters
  • Noise level: very high
  • Experience level: intermediate to experienced

On This Page

  • Do Sulphur Crested Cockatoos Make Good Pets?
  • Bringing Your Cockatoo Home
  • Essential Supplies
  • What Size Cage Does a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Need?
  • Toys and Enrichment
  • What Do Sulphur Crested Cockatoos Eat?
  • Providing Water
  • Mineral Supplements and Vitamins
  • Behaviour and Handling
  • Can You Train a Cockatoo?
  • What Are the Most Common Health Problems in Cockatoos?
  • Parasite Control
  • Health, Hygiene and Safety
  • Toxic and Dangerous Hazards
  • How Can You Tell if Your Cockatoo Is Sick?
  • How Can You Tell if a Cockatoo Is Male or Female?
  • Record Keeping
  • Holiday Care
  • Transportation
  • Compatibility with Other Animals
  • Boarding
  • Frequently Asked Questions
  • Recommended Avian Vets for Sulphur Crested Cockatoos in Sydney

Do Sulphur Crested Cockatoos Make Good Pets?

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos make wonderful pets for the right owner. That means someone who is home often, can handle a lot of noise and is ready for a bird that may live for decades.

A hand-raised Sulphur Crested Cockatoo bonds very closely with its family and wants to be involved in everything you do. Their talking ability is moderate, but their intelligence is not. They pick up tricks quickly, work out how to open latches and get bored easily if they aren’t given enough to do.

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are a native Australian bird you can keep in NSW without a licence, as long as the bird was bred in captivity and comes from a legal source. It’s illegal to take one from the wild.

Before you commit, think honestly about three things. The noise is real and happens every day, especially at sunrise and sunset. The lifespan means this bird could be with your family for decades. They also need several hours of attention and time out of the cage every day.

 

 

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Bringing Your Cockatoo Home

If your bird isn’t fully weaned yet, visit our Hand Raising Baby Birds page (https://birdsville.net.au/hand-raising-baby-birds/) for feeding instructions.

The First 3 Days

Give your new cockatoo time to settle into its surroundings without too much handling. Moving house is stressful for any bird. Stress lowers a cockatoo’s immune system, which leaves it more open to picking up an infection during those first few days.

The First Week

Loose droppings are common in a newly moved bird because of stress, and a young bird can dehydrate quickly. Add Vetafarm Spark Liquid (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-spark-liquid-50ml) to the drinking water for the first few days to give your cockatoo electrolytes and energy while it settles in. Keep a close eye on your bird’s droppings and appetite during the first week. If the droppings stay watery or your cockatoo stops eating, see an avian vet promptly.

Essential Supplies for Sulphur Crested Cockatoos

Housing and Enclosure

  • A large, strongly built cage (macaw-sized is ideal)
  • Escape-proof clips or locks for every door
  • Natural branch perches in a range of thicknesses
  • A play gym or play stand for time outside the cage

Water and Feeding

  • At least three heavy dishes: one for water, one for seed and one for pellets
  • A good quality cocky mix
  • Quality pellets
  • Fresh vegetables and fruit

Supplements

Enrichment and Toys

Hygiene and Cleaning

First Aid and Grooming

  • A digital scale for weekly weigh-ins
  • Styptic powder for minor nail or beak bleeds
  • Vetafarm Spark Liquid for moves and stressful times

Transport

  • A sturdy, well-ventilated carry cage

What You May Consider

  • A second cage or perch stand for another room
  • Harness training gear for supervised outdoor time
  • A full spectrum avian light for birds that get little natural sunlight

Every product mentioned on this page, and plenty more, is available in-store at Birdsville, and our team is happy to help you choose the right setup for your cockatoo.

What Size Cage Does a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Need?

A Sulphur Crested Cockatoo needs a strong, macaw-sized cage of at least 91cm long, 61cm wide and 122cm high, plus daily time outside the cage on a play gym.

Choosing a Cage

Large macaw-sized cages are recommended for Sulphur Crested Cockatoos. Look for bars around 2 to 2.5cm apart. There’s no such thing as a cage too big for a cockatoo. Strength matters just as much as size. Cockatoos are powerful chewers that can break poorly welded bars. Many also learn to open simple door latches, so fit clips to every door.

Where to Put the Cage

Place the cage somewhere central, such as a family or living room. Your cockatoo wants to feel like part of the family. Keep the cage out of the kitchen because of cooking fumes, and away from draughty doors, air conditioners and heaters. Placing one side of the cage against a wall helps your bird feel secure.

Perches

Natural branch perches are far better than smooth dowel. The bumps, bends and changing thickness work your bird’s feet and help prevent foot problems over time. Offer a few different thicknesses.

Play Gym

We consider a play gym essential for anyone who owns a hand-raised cockatoo. It gives your bird somewhere to spend time with you outside the cage, and it’s the perfect base for training sessions. See our range of bird play stands (https://birdsville.net.au/bird-play-stands/).

Toys and Enrichment

Toys aren’t optional for a cockatoo. These intelligent birds need plenty of them to keep their minds busy, and a well-stocked cage helps prevent problems like feather plucking and screaming. Rotate the toys every week or two so the cage always feels new.

Swings are great for cockatoos. They love to play on them, and balancing on a moving swing works muscles they wouldn’t use standing on a still branch.

Many cockatoos love a bath. Offer a shallow dish of fresh water or give your bird a light mist with a spray bottle a few times a week.

What Do Sulphur Crested Cockatoos Eat?

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos do best on quality pellets and a measured amount of good cocky mix, with fresh vegetables every day and small amounts of fruit and nuts as treats.

A well-balanced diet is the biggest factor in your cockatoo’s long-term health. Most health problems we see in pet cockatoos come back to diet.

Avoid the trap that thousands of Australian cockatoo owners fall into. They throw out perfectly good food every day and top the bowl up with more seed. The bird then picks out only the fattiest seeds like sunflower and leaves everything else. Over time this leads to obesity and liver problems.

Two Ways to Feed Your Cockatoo

  1. Seed, Blend and pellets: mix Basic Cocky Mix (https://petsville.com.au/products/avigrain-seed-cocky-mix-4kg) with Birdsville Blends Cocky Mix (https://petsville.com.au/products/birdsville-blends-cocky-mix-4kg) in one bowl, with pellets in a second bowl and fresh vegetables daily.
  2. Pellets and Seed Enhancer: feed pellets as the main food, with a smaller serve of seed sprinkled with Birdsville Blends Seed Enhancer (https://petsville.com.au/products/birdsville-blend-mixed-veg-seed-enhancer), plus fresh vegetables daily.

The Dust Bowl Method

The best way we’ve found to feed a cockatoo is what we call the dust bowl diet. Apart from water, give your bird at least two bowls. Fill one bowl less than half full of seed. Fill the other about half full of pellets. Don’t add any more food until both bowls have been eaten down to the dust. Your cockatoo learns to eat everything it’s given, and you’ll spend less on food. We refill the bowls for our own cockies roughly every 3 days.

Cockatoos are very efficient feeders in the wild and in captivity, so they won’t starve on this method. Always blow the husks off the top of the seed bowl first, though, as a bowl of empty husks can look full. One of our team learned while working as a zookeeper that a galah-sized cockatoo only needs about a tablespoon of seed and a tablespoon of pellets a day.

How Much to Feed

As a guide, an adult Sulphur Crested Cockatoo eats roughly a quarter to half a cup of pellets a day, plus a small amount of seed and a daily serve of fresh vegetables. Every bird is different. Weigh your cockatoo weekly and adjust the amount if its weight starts creeping up or dropping.

Feeding a Recently Weaned Baby

Never rush a baby cockatoo onto pellets. For the first 3 weeks after weaning, give your baby an all-you-can-eat buffet of every food listed on this page, always with seed available, and put an extra bowl of seed on the cage floor. A baby given only pellets can stop eating and die. Once it’s eating confidently and holding its weight, move it onto the dust bowl method above.

Feed your cockatoo properly and you’ll see the difference within about 6 months. When your bird goes through its next moult, the new feathers will reflect its health from the inside out.

Seed

Use a good quality cocky mix that doesn’t contain black sunflower. Be wary of many chain store and supermarket mixes, as they can contain cheap filler seed and may not be fresh. Our most popular and best value blend is Birdsville Blends Cocky Mix, bagged fresh on site with chillies, pumpkin, legumes, mung beans, dried fruits, dried vegetables and herbs. Our seed sells so fast it never sits on the shelf. For extra variety, Birdsville Blends Healthy Parrot (https://petsville.com.au/products/birdsville-blends-healthy-parrot-500g) is another great option. If you’re unsure about the seed you’re using, ask our team.

Pellets

Pellets are fantastic for cockatoos of all kinds. We recommend Vetafarm Nutriblend Pellets Large (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-nutriblend-pellets-lge-1-6kg), Passwell Parrot Pellets (https://petsville.com.au/products/passwell-parrot-pellets-1kg), Harrison’s High Potency (https://petsville.com.au/products/harrisons-high-potency-super-course-454g) or Vetafarm Parrot Maintenance Pellets (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-parrot-maintenance-pellets-350g).

Sprouted Seed

Cocky mix is perfect for sprouting, and you can add extra mung beans to the mix. Sprouted seed is lower in fat and higher in nutrients than dry seed, and most cockatoos love it.

How to Sprout Seeds for Cockatoos

  1. Place the amount of seed you want to sprout into a container.
  2. Rinse the seeds well until the water runs clear.
  3. Soak overnight in fresh water, with the water level well above the seeds so they have room to swell. Add Aviclens to the water to stop bacteria building up, which can make your bird sick.
  4. Rinse well in the morning.
  5. Spread the seeds out in a pan, colander or wide container in a dark, well-ventilated spot.
  6. Rinse well several times a day.
  7. Harvest the seeds once small sprouts begin to appear.
  8. Drain the seeds until dry before serving. Damp food spoils quickly, so this step matters.

Fruits and Veggie Guide

Vegetables

Silverbeet, spinach, endive, broccoli, capsicum, chilli, chickweed and seeding grasses.

Fruits

Apple, pear and rockmelon. Fruit is high in sugar, so offer it in small amounts a few times a week.

Protein and Treats

Nuts such as walnuts and almonds make great training rewards, but they’re high in fat. Keep them to one or two small pieces a day at most.

Avoid Entirely

Avocado, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, onion, garlic, stone fruit pits, and sugary or salty human food.

Providing Water to Your Cockatoo

Give your cockatoo fresh, clean water every day in a heavy dish it can’t tip over. Many cockatoos dunk their food in the water bowl, which turns it dirty quickly. Check the water at least twice a day and change it whenever it looks cloudy or has food in it. Scrub the bowl daily to stop bacteria building up.

Mineral Supplements and Vitamins

Calcium

Provide a cuttlebone, a calcium perch or shell grit at all times, and add Vetafarm Calcivet to the water, especially for birds kept indoors.

Vitamin D

Birds need vitamin D to absorb calcium. A cockatoo that spends time in unfiltered sunlight makes its own. Window glass filters out the part of sunlight birds need, so a bird kept indoors behind glass won’t get enough. For indoor birds, give a vitamin D3 supplement or a full spectrum avian light.

Multivitamins

A regular vitamin boost, such as Vetafarm Multivet in the water, helps every cockatoo. If your bird eats mostly pellets, give it less often, as pellets already have vitamins added.

Behaviour and Handling

Hand-raised cockatoos are naturally affectionate, but trust still needs to be built. After the first 3 days of settling in, start with short sessions. Offer your hand at chest height, ask your bird to step up and reward it with a small treat. Talk to your cockatoo often, as they respond strongly to their owner’s voice.

Be careful with how you touch your cockatoo. Stick to scratches on the head and neck. Stroking the back, under the wings or near the tail can trigger hormonal behaviour in a mature bird, which often leads to screaming, biting and plucking.

Getting the amount of handling right is important. Over-handling a cockatoo, carrying it everywhere and giving it constant attention, creates a bird that screams the moment you leave the room. Under-handling a cockatoo, leaving it alone in a cage for most of the day, creates a bored, frustrated bird that is at high risk of plucking its feathers. Aim for a steady daily routine with time together, time on the play gym and time to entertain itself.

If your cockatoo screams or bites, our How to Stop a Parrot Screaming and Squawking (https://birdsville.net.au/screaming-and-squawking-parrots-how-to-stop/) and Parrot Biting and Aggression (https://birdsville.net.au/parrot-biting/) pages can help.

Can You Train a Cockatoo?

Yes. Cockatoos are among the easiest parrots to train, and most learn step up within days and simple tricks within a few weeks of short daily sessions.

Start with the basics like step up and step down, then move on to tricks such as waving, nodding, turning around and fetching. Keep sessions short, around 5 to 10 minutes once or twice a day, and always end on a success. Training also helps manage screaming, because it teaches your bird better ways to get your attention. Our How to Train Your Parrot page (https://birdsville.net.au/pet-bird-advice-and-training/bird-training-clicker-training-parrot-body-language/) covers this in detail.

What Are the Most Common Health Problems in Cockatoos?

The most common health problems in pet cockatoos are Beak and Feather Disease, obesity and fatty liver disease from a seed-heavy diet, feather plucking, psittacosis and stress diarrhoea.

Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

In our experience, Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are affected by Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease more than any other bird we see. It’s a contagious virus that damages the feathers, beak and immune system. Many birds carry the virus without ever showing signs. Clinical disease is mostly seen in young birds, usually within their first few years, and young birds tend to decline faster. Signs include abnormal or missing feathers, a loss of powder down that makes the beak look unusually shiny, and beak overgrowth or cracking. There’s no cure. Some birds live for years with the chronic form, while others decline quickly. See our Common Bird Illnesses page (https://birdsville.net.au/common-bird-illnesses/) for more detail.

Obesity and Fatty Liver Disease

Cockatoos fed mostly seed, especially sunflower, are prone to putting on weight and developing liver problems. Watch for a bird that seems heavy, less active or has an overgrown beak. The dust bowl method and weekly weigh-ins are the best prevention. For a bird already carrying extra weight, we recommend Birdsville Blends Healthy Parrot mixed with Basic Budgie Mix (https://petsville.com.au/products/avigrain-seed-budgie-blue-2kg) in place of a sunflower-heavy mix.

Feather Plucking

Boredom, stress, poor diet and hormones can all lead a cockatoo to pull out its own feathers. Plenty of toys, a good diet and a steady routine prevent most cases. See our How to Stop Feather Plucking in Parrots page (https://birdsville.net.au/pet-bird-advice-and-training/feather-plucking/) for causes and treatment.

Psittacosis (Chlamydiosis)

This bacterial infection can cause eye and nasal discharge, breathing problems and green droppings. It can also spread to people, so see an avian vet if your bird shows these signs.

Stress Diarrhoea

Loose droppings are common after a move or a big change at home. If they continue for more than a few days, or your bird stops eating, see a vet promptly.

Parasite Control

Worm your cockatoo regularly with a bird wormer and check for mites and lice, especially in birds that spend time outdoors. Any new bird should be quarantined for 4 to 6 weeks, kept well away from your other birds during that time.

Health, Hygiene and Safety

  • Daily: change the water, remove uneaten fresh food and clean the cage tray.
  • Weekly: wash all food and water dishes and wipe down the perches.
  • Monthly: clean and disinfect the whole cage and check it for damage.

Replace toys, dishes and perches once they become worn. Always wash your hands before and after handling your bird.

Toxic and Dangerous Hazards

As well as the foods listed under Avoid Entirely in the Fruits and Veggie Guide, watch out for these hazards around the home:

  • Teflon and non-stick cookware fumes, which can kill a bird quickly
  • Aerosol sprays, scented candles, air fresheners and cigarette smoke
  • Lead and zinc, often found in old cages, galvanised wire, keys and some cheap toys, so make sure your cage and toys contain neither
  • Toxic houseplants
  • Open windows, ceiling fans, hot stovetops and open pots of water when your bird is out of its cage
  • Other pets, especially cats and dogs

How Can You Tell if Your Cockatoo Is Sick?

A sick cockatoo often sits fluffed up, eats less and has watery or discoloured droppings. Birds hide illness well, so any change from normal is worth checking.

Signs of a Healthy Cockatoo

  • Active and alert
  • Eating and drinking normally
  • A clean vent
  • Clean, well-groomed feathers
  • Clear, bright eyes
  • A beak and feet that look normal

Signs of an Unwell Cockatoo

  • Watery or discoloured droppings
  • Red or swollen eyes
  • Discharge from the eyes or nostrils
  • Loss of appetite
  • A dirty vent
  • Loss of voice, wheezing or coughing
  • Plucked feathers or bald patches
  • Dirty, brownish feathers
  • Sitting fluffed up for long periods

If you notice any of these signs, contact an avian vet.

How Can You Tell if a Cockatoo Is Male or Female?

Adult Sulphur Crested Cockatoos can usually be sexed by eye colour. Males have very dark, almost black eyes, while females have reddish-brown eyes. This difference often isn’t clear in young birds, so DNA testing, such as through DNA Solutions (https://dnasolutions.com.au/animal-dna-testing/), is the most reliable method.

Record Keeping

Weigh your cockatoo once a week on a digital scale and write the weight down. Weight loss is often the first sign of illness, appearing well before a bird looks sick. Keep a simple log of worming dates, moults and vet visits too, and bring it along to vet appointments.

Holiday Care

Cockatoos don’t cope well being left alone for days. Arrange for someone to visit at least once a day to change water and food, check on your bird and spend some time with it. Leave clear written instructions and your avian vet’s details.

Transportation

Use a sturdy, well-ventilated carry cage with a perch, and cover part of it to help your bird feel safe. Keep trips short, avoid temperature extremes and never leave your cockatoo alone in a car.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are best kept as a single pet bird or with another cockatoo they’ve been properly introduced to. Their strong beaks can seriously injure smaller birds, so never let them share a cage with budgies, cockatiels or similar birds. Keep them well away from cats and dogs, even friendly ones, as a single bite or scratch can be fatal to a bird. Quarantine any new bird for 4 to 6 weeks before introducing it.

Boarding

If you’re going away for a while, see our Bird Boarding in Sydney page (https://birdsville.net.au/parrot-bird-boarding-sydney/), or book through Petsville Hotel (https://www.petsvillehotel.com).

Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Frequently Asked Questions

Are Sulphur Crested Cockatoos good pets for beginners?

Honestly, not usually. Sulphur Crested Cockatoos are affectionate and clever, but they’re extremely loud, need several hours of attention every day and can live for 70 years or more. First-time bird owners often do better starting with a cockatiel or galah, then moving up once they know what a large parrot really involves.

How long do Sulphur Crested Cockatoos live as pets?

A well cared for Sulphur Crested Cockatoo commonly lives 40 to 70 years, and some captive birds have been recorded reaching 80. That means your cockatoo may well outlive you, so it’s worth planning ahead and naming someone in your family who is willing and able to take the bird on.

Do I need a licence to keep a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo in NSW?

No. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is one of the native birds NSW allows you to keep without a licence, as long as it was bred in captivity and bought legally. Taking one from the wild is illegal, even an injured bird. If you find a wild cockatoo in trouble, call a wildlife rescue group such as WIRES.

Can Sulphur Crested Cockatoos talk?

Yes, though talking isn’t their strongest skill. Most learn a handful of words, whistles and household sounds, delivered in a loud, slightly gravelly voice. Where they really shine is trick training. With short daily sessions and positive rewards, many learn to wave, nod, turn around and even dance to music.

How much should I feed my cockatoo each day?

An adult usually does well on roughly a quarter to half a cup of pellets a day, a small amount of good quality cocky mix and a daily serve of fresh vegetables. Nuts are treats only. Weigh your bird weekly, because steady weight gain is the earliest sign you’re overfeeding.

Can I keep a Sulphur Crested Cockatoo in an apartment?

It’s rarely a good idea. Their natural contact call carries a long way, and most cockatoos scream at dawn and dusk no matter how well trained they are. If you live in a unit or close to neighbours, check your strata rules and talk honestly with the people next door before committing.

Recommended Avian Vets for Sulphur Crested Cockatoos in Sydney

  • SASH (Small Animal Specialist Hospital), 24/7 emergency, 5/476 Gardeners Rd, Alexandria NSW 2015, 02 8913 4000, sashvets.com
  • The Wild Vet, 22A Bridge Road, Glebe, 1300 945 383, thewildvet.com.au
  • SERV, 57-63 Herbert St, Artarmon, 02 9436 4884, exoticsvet.com.au
  • Southern Cross Veterinary Clinic, 60 Princes Hwy, St Peters, 02 9516 0234, southerncrossvet.com.au
  • Carlingford Animal Hospital, 772 Pennant Hills Road, Carlingford, 02 9871 6036, birdhealth.com.au
  • The Unusual Pet Vets, 995 Bourke Street, Waterloo NSW 2017, 02 9319 6111, unusualpetvets.com.au
  • Vetafarm (avian health products), vetafarm.com.au

NSW birds you can keep without a licence: environment.nsw.gov.au/licences-and-permits/wildlife-licences/native-animals-as-pets/bird-keeper-licences/birds-you-dont-need-a-licence-to-keep

Visit Us

Have a question about your cockatoo? Visit us at Birdsville, 684 Botany Road, Alexandria NSW 2015, on the corner of Gardeners Road, or call (02) 9669 1766. We’re a small business that does things in a big way, servicing the Eastern Suburbs and Inner South Sydney, and our bird specialists are always happy to help. Follow us on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/BirdsvilleRosebery/), Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/petsvillesydney/) and TikTok (https://www.tiktok.com/@birdsvillepets) for live updates.

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