Little Lorikeet Care: Diet, Housing and Breeding

Written by the Birdsville team. Last updated October 2026.

The Little Lorikeet is the smallest lorikeet in Australia, a tiny green bird with a red face and a big personality. This guide covers how to care for a Little Lorikeet properly: the right nectar diet, aviary setup, breeding, common health problems and the everyday dangers to avoid.

Little Lorikeet with green feathers, red face and black beak perched on a finger. — The Little Lorikeet is Australia’s smallest lorikeet

Little Lorikeets need a licence to keep in NSW, so Birdsville doesn’t sell them. We do stock everything a licensed keeper needs, from lorikeet food and vitamins to nest boxes, perches and toys, in-store at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria NSW 2015 and online through Petsville with delivery Australia-wide.

Little Lorikeet Quick Facts

Scientific name: Parvipsitta pusilla (formerly Glossopsitta pusilla)
Other names: Red-faced Lorikeet, Tiny Lorikeet, Gizzie
Adult size: about 15 to 18cm long, 30 to 50g
Lifespan: 10 to 20 years (sources differ, see below)
Diet: nectarivore (nectar, pollen, fruit and blossom), not a seed eater
Housing: a planted aviary is best, a very large cage only for a tame single bird
Breeding season: roughly late winter to early summer
Clutch: 3 to 5 white eggs, about 3 weeks incubation
Experience level: intermediate, not a first bird
Wild status: listed as Vulnerable in NSW

Little Lorikeets as Pets
Essential Supplies
Housing
Toys and Enrichment
Diet and Feeding
Providing Water
Minerals and Vitamins
Behaviour and Handling
Training
Common Health Issues
Parasite Control
Health, Hygiene and Safety
Toxic and Household Dangers
Choosing a Healthy Little Lorikeet
Sexing
Breeding
Record Keeping
Holiday Care
Transportation
Compatibility with Other Birds
Boarding
Frequently Asked Questions
Recommended Vets and Links

Little Lorikeets as Pets

In the wild, Little Lorikeets live from around Cairns down through Queensland and New South Wales, across most of Victoria and into south east South Australia. They travel in fast, chattering flocks through flowering eucalypts and often feed alongside Rainbow, Musk and Purple-crowned Lorikeets.

In aviaries they are lively, curious and playful. They are not big talkers. Their appeal is their energy, their colour and the way they bounce around a planted flight. They are kept in small numbers, even in Australia, and have a name among breeders for being more delicate than the larger lorikeets, so they suit someone who already has some bird keeping experience.

Wild numbers have fallen in parts of NSW and South Australia. The NSW Government lists the species as Vulnerable, which is one more reason to only ever buy from a licensed breeder (https://threatenedspecies.bionet.nsw.gov.au/profile.aspx?id=20111).

Essential Supplies for Little Lorikeets

All of the products below, and plenty more, are available in-store at Birdsville and online at Petsville.

Housing and Enclosure

Aviary or very large cage with stainless steel or powder coated wire
Natural branch perches in several thicknesses
Nest box (for breeding pairs and as a roosting spot)
Wood shavings for the nest box (https://petsville.com.au/products/martins-wood-shavings-30l)
Newspaper or paper liner for the floor of a cage

Food and Water

Birdsville Blends Lorikeet Dry (https://petsville.com.au/products/birdsville-blends-lorikeet-dry-1kg)
A wet lorikeet mix for young birds, such as Wombaroo Lorikeet and Honeyeater Food (https://petsville.com.au/products/wombaroo-lorikeet-honeyeater-food-1-5kg)
Separate stainless steel or ceramic dishes for wet food, dry food and water
Bird bath

Supplements

Vetafarm Calcivet (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-calcivet-50ml)
Vetafarm Multivet (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-multivet-50ml)
Calcium perch (https://petsville.com.au/products/avian-care-trimming-calcium-perch-140mm-small)

Enrichment and Toys

Swings, ladders and climbing ropes
Foraging toys, such as the BeakJoy Natural Signature Foraging Box (https://petsville.com.au/products/beakjoy-peak-play-natural-signature-blend-s)
Bells and other noisy toys
Fresh native flowering branches

Hygiene and Cleaning

Vetafarm Aviclens water cleanser (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-aviclens-water-cleanser-100ml)
F10 Veterinary Disinfectant (https://petsville.com.au/products/f10-veterinary-disinfectant-200ml)
Avitrol Mite and Lice Spray (https://petsville.com.au/products/fidos-avitrol-bird-mite-and-lice-spray-125ml)
Bird wormer

First Aid and Grooming

Digital kitchen scale that weighs in grams
Styptic powder for nail bleeds
A small heat lamp or a warm, quiet hospital cage

Transport

A small, secure carry cage

What You May Consider

Vetafarm Probotic for times of stress (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-probotic-25g)
Vetafarm Spark Liquid for moving day (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-spark-liquid-50ml)
Passwell Lorikeet Treat Bar (https://petsville.com.au/products/passwell-delight-lorikeet-75g)

Housing for Little Lorikeets

Little Lorikeets are built for speed. A well planted aviary that lets them fly properly is the best home for them, and most experienced keepers house them this way. A cage on its own is too small for a pair to stay fit, though a single tame bird can live indoors in the largest cage you can fit, provided it gets daily time out to fly.

Lorikeets have runny droppings, so plan for easy cleaning. A sloping concrete floor that drains, or a suspended aviary that lets droppings fall through, keeps things hygienic. In a cage, line the tray with newspaper and change it every day.

Use natural branches for perches, because dowel, plastic and metal perches can cause sore feet. Avoid toys with cotton or loose fibres, which can be swallowed and block the gut. All metal should be stainless steel to avoid zinc and lead poisoning.

Setting Up Your Little Lorikeet’s Aviary

Choose a spot with morning sun and shelter from strong wind and rain.
Roof at least part of the aviary and fully cover three sides of the shelter area.
Fit natural branch perches at each end so the birds have to fly between them.
Hang food and water dishes up high, away from perches, so droppings don’t land in them.
Add a nest box in the sheltered end, even outside breeding season, as a place to roost.
Add swings, ropes, a bath and fresh native branches.
Check the wire, doors and floor for gaps that rats, mice or snakes could use.

Toys and Enrichment

Little Lorikeets swing, hang upside down and climb all day, just as they do when feeding in a gum tree. Give them swings, ladders, ropes and noisy toys like bells. Rotate toys every week or two so they stay interesting.

Fresh flowering branches of bottlebrush, grevillea, eucalyptus and banksia are the best enrichment you can offer. They give nectar, pollen and something to chew. Rinse branches well first and only pick from areas that haven’t been sprayed.

A bath is a must. A sticky nectar diet means these birds need to bathe often to keep their feathers clean.

Diet and Feeding

Little Lorikeets are nectar and pollen feeders. They have a brush tipped tongue for lapping nectar from flowers, and their gut is designed for sugary liquid food, not hard seed. The most common reason captive lorikeets die young is a poor or spoiled diet, so feeding is the part of their care you most need to get right.

The base of the diet should be a quality commercial lorikeet food. Our top pick is Birdsville Blends Lorikeet Dry, our biggest seller for lorikeets and lories. Other good options include Vetafarm Wild Earth Lorikeet (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-wild-earth-lorikeet-450gm), Vetafarm Forest Fusion Lori Diet (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-forest-fusion-lori-diet-450g) and Passwell Complete Lorikeet (https://petsville.com.au/products/passwell-complete-lorikeet-1kg).

Wet Mix or Dry Mix?

Lorikeet food comes as a powder you can feed dry or mix with water.

Dry mix lasts longer in the dish and is the safer choice for adults. Always provide plenty of fresh water beside it. Throw out leftover powder and wash the dish every day.

Wet mix spoils quickly and grows bacteria and yeast in warm weather. Replace it at least twice a day, and more often during a Sydney summer heatwave. Throw out what’s left each time and wash the dish in hot soapy water.

How Much and How Often to Feed

Young birds: most young lorikeets come home eating wet mix. Keep feeding it fresh twice a day, then wean them onto dry mix gradually over the first few months.

Adults: keep dry mix available all day. Vetafarm’s guide for its Wild Earth diet is at least 10g of food per 100g of body weight each day, which works out to roughly 4 to 5g for a Little Lorikeet. Add a small serve of fresh fruit and vegetables each morning and remove what’s left by evening.

Weigh your bird every week. A steady weight tells you the amount is right.

Fruits and Veggie Guide

Fruits

Apple, pear, berries, melon, pawpaw, pomegranate, kiwi fruit and small amounts of grapes. Citrus no more than once a week (see Iron Storage Disease below).

Vegetables

Corn on the cob, pumpkin, sweet potato, carrot, spinach and silverbeet. Orange vegetables are a good source of vitamin A, which helps protect against fungal infections.

Treats and Extras

Native blossoms, a Passwell Lorikeet Treat Bar now and then, and a little sprouted seed as an occasional treat only.

Avoid Entirely

Avocado, onion, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, salty or fatty food and dry seed as a main diet.

Providing Water to Your Little Lorikeet

Fresh, clean water must be available at all times, even when feeding wet mix. Birds on dry mix drink a lot more, so check the dish twice a day in summer. A few drops of Aviclens in the water helps keep it clean between changes. Wash the water dish every day, because sticky beaks leave nectar residue that grows bacteria fast.

Minerals and Vitamins

A good commercial lorikeet food covers most of their needs, but a few extras help. We recommend Vetafarm Calcivet for every bird, especially birds kept indoors or out of direct sunlight, as liquid calcium with vitamin D3. A calcium perch gives an extra source they can nibble on.

If your bird eats poorly or is under stress, a regular course of Vetafarm Multivet in the water gives a useful vitamin boost.

Behaviour and Handling

Little Lorikeets are busy, social birds that chatter constantly while they feed. A young, hand raised bird can become quite tame, while aviary birds are better watched than handled.

Give any new bird a day or two to settle in before you try handling it. After that, short and calm sessions work best, such as sitting beside the cage while you read or watch TV. Young birds need plenty of rest, so don’t overdo it in the first few weeks.

Too much handling stresses a small bird, and too little lets a tame bird go wild again. Aim for short sessions every day. Watch children closely, since excited grabbing and chasing frightens these little birds quickly.

Training

Training keeps a tame Little Lorikeet calm and easy to manage. Keep three rules in mind:

Reward good behaviour with a treat or praise.
Ignore behaviour you don’t want.
Never punish your bird.

Start with “step up”. Hold one hand in front of the bird and gently press your finger against its lower chest as you say the cue. As it lifts one foot, raise your hand slightly so the other foot follows, then reward it. Repeat a few times, then ask for several step ups before each reward. Over time, swap the treat for praise. Keep sessions short and frequent.

For more ideas, read our guide on how to train your parrot (https://birdsville.net.au/pet-bird-advice-and-training/bird-training-clicker-training-parrot-body-language/).

Common Health Issues

Birds are experts at hiding illness. A fluffed up bird that sits quietly with its eyes closed is often seriously sick, so act fast. For more detail on bird diseases, see our Common Bird Illnesses guide (https://birdsville.net.au/common-bird-illnesses/).

Yeast Infection (Candida)

The high sugar content of a nectar diet lets yeast grow easily, especially when wet food is left out too long. Watch for lethargy, regurgitation, a sour smell from the mouth or white patches inside the beak. Fresh food and clean dishes are the best prevention. See a vet if your bird isn’t acting normally.

Fungal Infections

Damp, dirty housing and spoiled food are the usual causes. A lack of vitamin A lowers a bird’s resistance. Keep the enclosure dry and clean, change food often and offer vitamin A rich foods like carrot and sweet potato.

Bacterial Infections

Bacteria can come from dirty dishes, the floor, other pets or even people’s hands. Stress makes birds more likely to get sick. If your bird looks fluffed and quiet, keep it warm straight away with a heat lamp or heater near the cage, then get it to an avian vet as soon as you can.

Iron Storage Disease

Lorikeets absorb iron easily, and too much builds up in the liver. Vitamin C increases how much iron is absorbed, which is why citrus should only be fed about once a week. Signs include a swollen belly, breathing trouble and weakness.

Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)

PBFD is a virus that affects all parrots and spreads through feather dust and droppings. There is no vaccine. Some young birds die early, while others lose feathers. Lorikeets sometimes recover and regrow their feathers, but they may still carry and shed the virus. A good diet, a clean home and low stress give your bird the best chance.

Stress

When I was a zoo keeper, cutting out stress was one of our most important jobs, because a stressed animal picks up disease far more easily. For a Little Lorikeet, that means the right diet, a quiet place to rest and time to settle into a new home. Adults enjoy noise and attention. Young birds need calm.

Obesity

A bird that can’t fly enough puts on weight, which can shorten its life. Give your bird room to fly, perches of different sizes and supervised time out of the cage if it lives indoors. Keep sweet treats small.

Injuries

Small birds get hurt flying into windows, mirrors and ceiling fans. Close windows and curtains, turn off fans and supervise every flight inside the house. Take any injured bird to a vet straight away.

Parasite Control

Worm your Little Lorikeet every 6 months. Newly weaned young birds have delicate gut bacteria, so wait a few weeks to two months after bringing a young bird home before the first worming, and check the timing with our team or your vet. Vetafarm Wormout Gel (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-wormout-gel-50ml) is one option for caged and aviary birds.

Lice and mites are the most common external parasites. Use a bird mite and lice spray on the bird, cage, perches, nest box and toys. Remove food and water first and keep the spray away from the eyes and mouth. Follow the directions on the bottle.

Keep any new bird apart from your others for 4 to 6 weeks before mixing them, so any hidden parasites or illness can show up first.

Little lorikeet next to a java finch on a hand — Little lorikeet beautiful and tiny next to a finch.

Health, Hygiene and Safety

Hygiene matters more for lorikeets than for seed eating birds because their food spoils so fast.

Daily

Replace wet food at least twice a day. Wash all food and water dishes in hot soapy water. Remove leftover fruit and vegetables. Change cage paper.

Weekly

Clean the whole cage or aviary floor, perches, toys and bath. Weigh your bird.

Monthly

Disinfect the enclosure with a bird safe disinfectant like F10. Replace worn perches and toys. Check the nest box and clean it out between clutches.

Toxic and Household Dangers

For foods to avoid, see the Avoid Entirely list in the Fruits and Veggie Guide above. Around the house, also watch for:

Non-stick cookware (Teflon), aerosols and smoke, which give off fumes that can kill birds
Ceiling fans, windows, doors and mirrors
Zinc, lead and copper in cheap cages, toys and keys
Bleach, oven cleaner, glue, paint, nail polish remover and insect sprays
Open water, such as a sink, pot or even a coffee mug, where a bird can drown
Electrical cords
Cold draughts, one of the biggest killers of pet birds
Dogs and cats, which must never be left alone with a bird, even when they seem friendly

Choosing a Healthy Little Lorikeet

Because Little Lorikeets need a licence in NSW, you’ll be buying from a licensed breeder. Here’s what to check before you take one home.

Eyes: bright and clear, with no discharge, swelling, redness or squinting.
Body condition: as a bird handler, every time I pick up a bird I feel its keel, the breast bone underneath that anchors the flight muscles. A sick bird loses muscle here first, and because birds burn energy so fast, they can lose weight and go downhill very quickly. Learn to feel your own bird’s keel and check it regularly.
Mouth and beak: clean, with no sores, wetness or build up, and a beak that isn’t overgrown.
Nostrils: open and free of discharge.
Feathers: sleek and complete. Young birds’ tails can look ragged from wet food and rubbing on wire, which is normal.
Vent: clean, with no staining around it.
Feet and legs: clean, with smooth scales.
Appetite: choose a bird that eats eagerly. A good appetite is a strong sign of good health.
Behaviour: active and alert. A sleepy or weak bird may be sick or not yet fully weaned.
Weaning: unless you have hand raising experience, only buy a fully weaned bird that eats on its own. Hand feeding mistakes can cause serious harm, and your bond with a weaned bird won’t suffer at all.
Enclosure: the breeder’s cages should be clean.

If a breeder clips the wings, both wings should be done evenly, never just one, or the bird can crash land. Birdsville offers wing and nail clipping in-store (https://birdsville.net.au/wing-clipping-nail-clipping/).

Sexing Little Lorikeets

Males and females look almost the same. Females can be slightly duller, but the difference is too small to rely on. DNA sexing is the only reliable way to know, and it’s worth doing before you set up a breeding pair. Young birds have less red on the face and a brown beak instead of black.

Breeding Little Lorikeets

Little Lorikeets are ready to breed from about 12 to 18 months old. The male courts the female by hopping towards her, bobbing his head and wiping his beak along the perch.

Breeding usually runs from late winter into early summer, starting earlier in the north of their range. Provide a diagonal nest box about 30 x 15 x 18cm, or a hollow log, with a shallow layer of wood shavings or rotted wood. Don’t use nesting mixes containing cedar, as the oils can irritate a bird’s lungs.

The hen lays 3 to 5 small, round white eggs and incubates them for about 3 weeks. Chicks fledge at around 6 to 8 weeks and are independent a few weeks after that. Lorikeet chicks produce a lot of liquid droppings, so clean the nest box thoroughly between clutches. Some breeders drill small drainage holes in the base.

During breeding season, pairs can turn bossy towards other birds. Extra feeding stations, or moving the pair to its own aviary, helps keep the peace. Vetafarm Breeding Aid (https://petsville.com.au/products/vetafarm-breeding-aid-100ml) can support birds through the breeding season.

Record Keeping

Keep a simple notebook or phone note with your bird’s weight each week, worming and mite spray dates, vet visits, DNA results and breeding records. A sudden drop in weight is often the first sign that something is wrong. Licensed keepers also have their own record keeping requirements to meet.

Holiday Care

Little Lorikeets are less forgiving of a missed day than seed eating birds. Wet food goes off within hours and a day without fresh food and water can make one sick. Never leave a lorikeet with just a big bowl of food while you go away. Arrange someone experienced to come in at least once a day, or book your bird into boarding.

Transportation

Use a small, secure, ventilated carry cage. Remove water for the trip to avoid spills, but offer it again as soon as you arrive. Keep the trip short, never leave a bird in a parked car and keep it out of direct sun and air conditioning vents. A little Vetafarm Spark Liquid in the water after a move helps with energy and electrolytes. Birdsville stocks a range of carry cages (https://birdsville.net.au/carry-cages/).

Compatibility with Other Birds

Little Lorikeets are usually peaceful in a large aviary. They can live with other Little Lorikeets, Purple-crowned Lorikeets, doves, quail, finches and other small, gentle parrots. Avoid housing them with larger lorikeets or aggressive parrots.

Like people, some individual birds have a bad attitude. When adding a new bird, use what I call a soft release cage. Place the newcomer in a cage inside the aviary for about two weeks so everyone can see and get used to each other. Then let it out. This stops the resident birds from mobbing the new arrival. Remember to complete the 4 to 6 week quarantine first.

Boarding

If you’re going away, we offer bird boarding in Sydney with staff who know how to feed and care for lorikeets (https://birdsville.net.au/parrot-bird-boarding-sydney/). Bring your bird’s usual food so its diet doesn’t change.

Little Lorikeet Frequently Asked Questions

Can you keep a Little Lorikeet as a pet?

Yes, but in NSW you need a licence, and they suit experienced keepers better than beginners. Little Lorikeets are active nectar feeders that do best in a planted aviary with room to fly. A hand raised bird can become tame, but it needs a fresh lorikeet diet every day, daily attention and very good hygiene.

What do Little Lorikeets eat?

Little Lorikeets eat nectar, pollen, fruit and blossom, not seed. In captivity, feed a quality commercial lorikeet food as the base of the diet, either dry or mixed wet. Add fresh fruit, vegetables and flowering native branches each day, keep citrus to once a week, and always provide fresh drinking water.

Is wet or dry food better for a Little Lorikeet?

Dry lorikeet food is usually safer for adult birds because it doesn’t spoil as quickly, but it must be paired with plenty of fresh water. Wet mix suits young birds and is often what they eat when they first come home. Replace wet mix at least twice a day, and more often in hot weather.

How long do Little Lorikeets live?

A well cared for Little Lorikeet usually lives about 10 to 20 years, and sources differ on the exact figure. Diet and hygiene make the biggest difference. Spoiled food and poorly balanced diets cause many early deaths, so fresh food, clean dishes, regular worming and a low stress home all help your bird reach old age.

Can Little Lorikeets live with other birds?

Yes. Little Lorikeets are generally peaceful in a large aviary and can share it with doves, quail, finches, other Little Lorikeets and small, gentle parrots. They can get bossy in a crowded space or during breeding season, so give them room, provide several feeding stations and quarantine new birds for 4 to 6 weeks first.

How can you tell if a Little Lorikeet is male or female?

You can’t reliably tell by looking. Males and females look almost identical, and females are only slightly duller. A DNA test using a feather or blood sample is the accurate way to sex a Little Lorikeet, and it’s worth doing before pairing birds for breeding. Your avian vet can arrange one.

Visit Birdsville for Everything Your Little Lorikeet Needs

Birdsville has been looking after Sydney’s birds since 1985. We’re a small, family run business that does things in a big way, and because nobody tells us how to run our shop, we only stock products we’d trust with our own birds.

You’ll find lorikeet food, vitamins, nest boxes, perches, toys and much more in-store at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria NSW 2015, on the corner of Gardeners Road, servicing the Eastern Suburbs and Inner South Sydney. Visit us or call (02) 9669 1766, or shop online at Petsville (https://petsville.com.au/collections/lorikeet-food) with delivery Australia-wide.

For live updates and photos, follow us on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/BirdsvilleRosebery/), Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/petsvillesydney/) and TikTok (https://www.tiktok.com/@birdsvillepets).