Indian Ringneck

Indian Ringnecks are native to semi-desert regions, open shrubland, bushland and evergreen forests across India and Asia. Highly adaptable birds, they have also established themselves in urban environments — thriving in gardens, orchards and city parks wherever fruit-bearing vegetation is available.

They have been introduced to several countries around the world and have the potential to become a pest species in Australia if released into the wild. Responsible ownership is important, and our team can advise on the right precautions when you purchase your bird.

Feeding your Ringneck doesn’t need to be complicated — they are good eaters and will always eat their favourite food first. This is perfectly fine; leave the remaining food and they will come back to it. A varied diet is important and improves the overall health and condition of your bird. Birds under four months of age should always have an all-you-can-eat buffet available.

• Seed A good quality small parrot seed mix. Avoid supermarket mixes which are often low grade — ask our team in store for the right brand.
• Sprouted seed Use a cockatoo seed mix for sprouting. Always clean with Aviclens before feeding to remove bacteria and keep it safe.
• Pellets Offered in a separate dish alongside seed. Good options include Murphy’s, Peckish, Vetafarm Nutriblend and Vetafarm Paradise pellets.
• Fruit Apples, guava, mango, pear, stone fruit, rock melon, orange and grapes — offered in moderation.
• Vegetables Corn, pumpkin, sweet potato, spinach, silver beet, green beans, cucumber, broccoli, squash and bok choy.
• Supplements Calcium perches or bells are recommended. A vitamin D supplement is essential for indoor birds — sunlight through glass does not allow proper calcium absorption.

Young birds should be provided with an all-you-can-eat buffet of fruit, vegetables, nuts, pellets and seed at all times. Unlike older birds, babies can be picky and may need more encouragement to try new foods. Having some fatty food in their diet at this age is not a concern — the priority is simply that they are eating well and gaining weight. As they mature, you can gradually introduce more variety and reduce the richer options.

Choose a cage large enough for your Ringneck to fully stretch and flap its wings without touching the toys, food bowls or the sides of the cage. As a guide, the cage should comfortably accommodate at least three to four toys and three food bowls without feeling cramped. Get the largest cage you can afford — the right environment is one of the most important factors in keeping a happy, healthy and tame bird.

Ringnecks that are given insufficient space or allowed to become bored can develop behavioural problems such as excessive chirping or feather plucking. Providing a variety of toys — things to chew, climb on and interact with, including different textures like leather and wood — and rotating them regularly keeps your bird mentally engaged. If your bird is kept outdoors, ensure it has adequate shelter from direct sun and rain at all times.

Training is an important part of owning a well-behaved Ringneck. Handle your bird in quiet, relaxed situations — spending time together while watching TV or reading is ideal. Try not to over-stress your bird in the first few weeks; babies need plenty of rest and time to adjust to their new home.

It is completely normal for a young Ringneck to appear tame when you first bring it home but then turn feisty or nippy after a few days. This is caused by high hormone levels at this age and is a well-documented phase. If this happens, it is essential to continue handling the bird as much as possible. The worst thing you can do is avoid contact because you are worried about being bitten — your bird simply cannot bond with you without regular interaction, and this phase will pass.

Parrots cannot thrive on perches, food and water alone. Environmental enrichment is essential for the mental and physical wellbeing of your Ringneck, and birds that are well-stimulated are far less likely to develop psychological issues such as feather plucking, self-mutilation or excessive squawking. They are also significantly easier to train.

Enrichment can include chewing toys, leather toys, wooden toys, shredding toys, ropes, swings, ladders, bells, balls, foraging puzzles, cardboard boxes, wicker baskets, wheatgrass trays, bird baths, food kabobs and nuts. Natural items such as pinecones, twigs and safe native flowers — bottlebrush, grevillea, eucalyptus, hibiscus, marigolds, dandelion, roses and violets — are also wonderful additions. Just ensure anything brought in from outside is disinfected and confirmed non-toxic. Rotate your bird’s toys regularly to keep the environment fresh and interesting.

If you already have a Ringneck at home and are bringing a second bird into the household, keep the new bird in a separate cage initially and allow it time to settle into the environment. Place the two enclosures side by side so they can see and hear each other safely without direct contact. Allow at least two weeks before introducing them outside their cages or housing them together. Use this settling-in period to begin bonding with and training your new bird individually first.

Your new Ringneck will need to be wormed a few weeks to two months after coming home — speak with our team at the time of purchase for the correct timing for your individual bird. Young birds that have recently been weaned are still developing the delicate bacteria in their gut, and worming too early can be harmful. Once your bird is established and settled, worming every six months is essential for its ongoing health.

The two most common parasites you may come across are lice and mites. Both are easily controlled with a spray available in store at Birdsville. If you notice your bird scratching excessively, looking uncomfortable or behaving unusually, come in and speak with our team and we’ll point you in the right direction.