All breeds of rabbit need the same basic care. Bringing home a new pet rabbit is exciting, but rabbits have specific needs around diet, housing and handling. We’re Sydney’s small animal specialists, and this guide covers the full picture of rabbit care, from setting up their enclosure to diet, health and training.

Quick Facts

Scientific name: Oryctolagus cuniculus
Also known as: Bunny
Adult size: Netherland Dwarf 500g to 1.9kg, Mini Lop 0.75kg to 2.5kg
Lifespan: Netherland Dwarf 10 to 12 years, Mini Lop around 7 to 10 years
Diet type: Herbivore
Minimum enclosure: 100cm x 56cm x 45cm for an indoor enclosure, paired with daily exercise time outside it, outdoor setups need significantly more, closer to 3m x 2m x 1m total including an attached run
Temperature range: 15 to 21°C, rabbits are prone to heat stress above 28°C
Experience level: More involved than many people expect, manageable with the right setup and research

On This Page

Rabbits as Pets
Essential Supplies for Rabbits
Housing & Enclosure Setup
Diet & Feeding
Providing Water to Your Rabbits
Mineral Supplements and Vitamins
Behaviour & Handling
Training
Common Health Issues
Parasite Control
Vaccination & Desexing
Health, Hygiene & Safety
Toxic & Dangerous Hazards
General Care and Grooming
Sexing
Holiday Care & Boarding
Transportation
Compatibility with Other Animals
FAQ
Recommended Vets and Links for Rabbit Owners

Rabbits as Pets

Rabbits are friendly, intelligent companions that suit most households, including families with children who are taught to handle them gently. Birdsville breeds Netherland Dwarf and Mini Lop rabbits, both docile, easy to litter train, and quick to bond with their humans and other household pets when introduced properly. Rabbits that are handled correctly and consistently from an early age form strong bonds with their family, and both breeds have the exact same care and diet requirements covered in this guide. They can also be seen as prey by other animals, wild and domestic, so supervision matters even once they’re settled in.

Essential Supplies for Rabbits

Housing & Enclosure

Enclosure/Hutch: chat to our staff about the right size for your rabbit. Both indoor and outdoor enclosures are available. There’s no such thing as an enclosure that’s too big.

Hide: a small, safe place for your rabbit to retreat to, available as tents, pouches or hides in a range of materials and sizes. Choose with your rabbit’s adult size in mind. We prefer wooden hides, since they double as something to chew on.

Litter Tray: an appropriately sized tray for litter training, sized for your rabbit once fully grown.

Bedding & Substrate

Straw, sawdust, paper pellets, mini hemp, oz hemp, wood pellets or Kaytee litter all work well as substrate. Litter tray bedding should use a different material from the rest of the enclosure so your rabbit can tell the two apart. Hay belongs in the diet, not on the floor, rabbits will eat it either way, so using it as bedding just means less of it ends up eaten as food.

Water & Feeding

Drink Bottle: the most reliable option for rabbits, a bowl can be tipped over, stepped in, or fouled, and a rabbit that runs out of water this way can get into trouble fast.

Bowls: for pellets and fresh veggies, sturdy and low enough that they won’t get knocked over.

Hay Feeder: keeps hay fresh and off the ground so it doesn’t get soiled.

Quality Rabbit Pellets: Selective Junior (under 6 months), Selective Adult (over 8 months), Rabbit Origins, or Birdsville Small Animal Mix. We only stock good quality food, there’s no point feeding a low grade pellet.

Hay: oaten, ryegrass, timothy or pasture hay, making up around 70% of the diet and an important source of fibre for digestion.

Treats: great for training and rewarding your rabbit.

Supplements

Salt Lick / Mineral Block: worth having in the enclosure in case your rabbit is missing something in its diet. Rabbits only use these when they actually need to.

Vitamins: worth adding if you’re feeding a lower quality food, or as a top up to the diet.

Synbiotic/Probiotic: can support the immune system and digestive function when given daily.

Enrichment & Toys

Rabbits are very social and love to play. Aim for at least 4 to 6 appropriate toys for chewing, throwing, rolling and general play, rabbits enjoy toys they can roll, hang from or chew. As Sydney’s small animal specialists, we stock a huge range of rabbit toys, simply because rabbits love them so much.

Tunnels: great for rabbits to run through, play in and hide.

Play Pen: puppy play pens are very popular for giving rabbits a safe exercise area, indoors or outdoors, separate from their main enclosure.

Hygiene & Cleaning

Hutch Cleaner: rabbit urine is quite acidic and can be tough to shift, CSI, Vetafarm, F10 and Aristopet all cut through it safely without irritating your rabbit. Steer clear of regular household disinfectant, it’s a common cause of toxicity in rabbits.

Mite & Mange Spray: recommended 10 days after bringing your rabbit home, then every 12 weeks (around every 3 months) ongoing.

First Aid & Grooming

Rabbit safe shampoo for the occasional bath, human and other animal shampoos are too acidic for a rabbit’s sensitive skin. Keep a small emergency kit on hand too, Spark, Triple C, F10 barrier ointment and a heat lamp cover the basics until you can get to a vet.

Transport

A sturdy carry cage is worth getting from day one, rather than waiting until you actually need it for a vet visit or a trip out. A cardboard box isn’t a substitute, rabbits can chew through one very quickly.

What You May Consider

Enclosure Stand: lifts an indoor enclosure up to an easier height for interacting with your rabbit.

Spare Bowls: handy for an easy swap when one needs a soak, or for putting out extra food.

Treat & Veggie Holders: keep treats and veggies off the ground, cutting down on waste and adding a bit of enrichment.

Harness & Lead: extra safety from predators when outside, and stops your rabbit running off. Harness training takes a little time, don’t expect your rabbit to take to it straight away.

Bed: for the rabbit that likes its comfort.

You’ll find all of this in store, and our team is always happy to help you pick the right set up for your rabbit.

Housing & Enclosure Setup

Rabbits need enough room to fully stretch out, hop, and stand upright on their back legs without their ears brushing the top of the enclosure. For an indoor enclosure, the minimum is 100cm x 56cm x 45cm, paired with daily exercise time outside it, since indoor rabbits typically get plenty of supervised time roaming the house. Keeping a rabbit outdoors instead means going much bigger, welfare guidelines call for at least 3m x 2m x 1m of total space (hutch plus an attached run), since outdoor rabbits rely on that space alone rather than time inside. There’s no such thing as an enclosure that’s too big.

As with guinea pigs, a baby rabbit doesn’t need a scaled down enclosure to start in either, once they’re weaned, the full sized adult set up works from day one.

Exercise time away from the enclosure matters just as much as the enclosure itself. Puppy play pens are very popular for giving rabbits a safe area to run around in, either indoors or outdoors, and come with a wire or covered top for outdoor safety. If you’d rather let your rabbit roam part of the house instead, check that area is properly rabbit proofed first, cords, skirting boards and anything chewable tucked out of reach.

Straw is the go to bedding for an outdoor hutch, while straw, dust extracted sawdust, hemp or paper litter all work well indoors. Aim for a bedding depth of around 5 to 15cm.

Rabbits are naturally playful and get bored quickly without enough to do, and a bored rabbit is far more likely to take up chewing furniture or its own fur out of frustration. Plenty of toys, rotated regularly, heads that off and keeps their teeth worn down at the same time, without them it’s only a matter of time before overgrown teeth turn into an expensive vet bill.

Diet & Feeding

Rabbits are herbivores that graze for hours a day, and need a diet built overwhelmingly around hay, with pellets and a modest amount of fresh food alongside it. Any change to the diet should be phased in gradually over 2 to 3 weeks, since a sudden switch can cause digestive upset.

Day to day: keep hay topped up and available around the clock via a hay feeder, and refresh the water bottle at the same time. Growing rabbits, babies through to juveniles, get pellets and hay on a free choice basis, let them eat as much as they want. Once your rabbit reaches adulthood, pellets get portioned rather than left unlimited (see Adult below). Hold off on fresh vegetables until your rabbit is at least 12 weeks old, or two weeks after you bring them home if that’s later, then introduce them gradually.

Baby & Weaning, birth to 6 to 8 weeks: kits start nibbling solid food from around 2 to 3 weeks old but should stay with their mother until at least 6 to 8 weeks. Pellets and alfalfa hay should both be available free choice at this stage, alfalfa is higher in calcium and protein than grass hay, which growing rabbits need.

Juvenile, 8 weeks to around 4 months: growing rabbits still get free choice pellets and hay, don’t ration it, they need the extra calories and protein to grow properly. Look for a higher protein Junior formula such as Selective Junior, and keep offering alfalfa hay through this stage.

Transition, 4 to 7 months: this is when portion control starts. Begin phasing out alfalfa hay around 4 to 5 months old and gradually reduce pellet amounts, moving over to an adult grass hay and an adult pellet such as Selective Adult by 6 to 7 months.

Adult, from around 7 months: hay should make up at least 70% of the diet and be available at all times, it’s the main source of fibre for healthy digestion. Pellets should be no more than 20% of the diet, overfeeding pellets is one of the most common causes of an overweight rabbit. The remaining 10% is fresh food, leafy greens make up the bulk of that, around 8% of the total diet, with a smaller amount of fruit or root vegetable rounding it out.

Fruits & Veggie Guide

 

Examples, not limited to.

Vegetables & Leafy Greens

Carrot tops, celery, bok choy, broccoli, brussels sprouts, spinach leaves, endive, Asian greens, parsley, dandelion, coriander, mint, basil and dill. These make up the bulk of the daily fresh food serve.

Fruits & Root Vegetables

A small amount goes a long way, carrot, sweet potato, capsicum, and fruit such as blueberries, one of the better choices for rabbits. Keep portions modest, even natural sugar isn’t great for rabbits in any quantity.

Treats

Small training treats are useful for bonding and rewarding good behaviour, but should sit within the same 10% fresh food allowance rather than on top of it. Legumes such as lucerne, alfalfa or clover count as a treat too once your rabbit is on an adult diet, not as hay, they’re higher in sugar, protein and calcium and lower in fibre than true hay.

Avoid Entirely

 

Iceberg lettuce, cereal, avocado, onion, garlic, added sugar, corn, beans, bread, sweets, chocolate, biscuits, grains, nuts, and some garden plants, check with our staff before offering anything you’re unsure of.

Providing Water to Your Rabbits

A drink bottle is the safer choice over a bowl, since a rabbit can’t tip it over, stand in it, or foul it, and running low on water is a real risk if a knocked over bowl goes unnoticed. Check the bottle daily to make sure it’s flowing freely and not blocked, topping it up as needed, and pull it apart for a proper scrub weekly, algae and bacteria build up fast inside the nozzle otherwise. Clean water matters even more for rabbits than most pets, since their hay heavy diet means they drink a fair amount to keep everything moving through their gut.

Mineral Supplements and Vitamins

Most of a rabbit’s salt and minerals should come naturally from a good quality hay, though this can vary a bit depending on where the hay was grown. A salt or mineral lick in the enclosure is a good backup, rabbits are pretty good at self regulating and will only use it when their body is actually asking for extra salt, so there’s little risk of overdoing it.

Vitamin drops are worth adding as a general top up, to cover any possible gaps or deficiencies in the diet, they typically contain a concentrated multivitamin and iron to help keep coat, energy and overall condition in good shape. Unlike guinea pigs, rabbits can produce their own vitamin C, so that’s one thing you don’t need to worry about topping up.

Behaviour & Handling

Always support a rabbit’s bottom and back legs with both hands when picking them up, never lift by the ears or the scruff alone. Rabbits have a powerful kick and a surprisingly fragile spine, and this isn’t a hypothetical risk, over the years we’ve heard more than a few sad stories from customers whose rabbit was dropped and suffered a spinal injury, often after an unexpected kick caught a child off guard mid hold. This isn’t a pet to hand to young children without close supervision.

Give a new rabbit a day or two to settle into their environment before handling them much at all, once they’ve started eating and drinking normally, you can begin. Rabbits fresh to a new home are often a bit reserved or wary at first, so plenty of short, gentle handling sessions help them get used to your presence and scent. Swing too far the other way, though, and too much handling before a rabbit has settled in does just as much damage, keep early sessions short rather than long.

Training

Litter Training

Rabbits are generally easy to litter train, most will pick a spot in the enclosure to use as a toilet on their own, so put the tray there rather than fighting their instinct. Use an absorbent litter in the tray that looks and feels different from the enclosure’s main substrate, that contrast is what helps them keep the two areas separate in their head.

Behaviour & Treat Training

Rabbits are social, intelligent animals that train easily once you understand how they see the world, and a lot of training attempts fail simply because people approach it the wrong way. As a prey animal, a rabbit’s eyes sit on the sides of its head, giving it close to 360 degree vision to watch for predators, but fairly poor sight straight ahead. Smell and whiskers matter more to a rabbit than sight does, so a treat held right under the nose registers far better than one just held up in front of them.

Before handling or patting a new rabbit, let them see and smell you calmly first, this reassures them you’re not a threat and makes a real difference to how quickly they settle and bond with you. Once they’re comfortable, a treat plus plenty of cuddles and affection goes a long way, rabbits are very affectionate once they feel safe.

Consistency gets the best results, aim for two sessions a day of at least 5 minutes each, using your rabbit’s favourite treats in a set, familiar area. As an example, teaching a rabbit to jump onto your lap when called can be broken into stages, reward every time they come to you, then reward once they come and stand with their front legs on your legs, then reward for reaching higher again, and finally reward once they make the full jump into your lap. Only reward the exact behaviour you asked for, rewarding anything else reinforces the wrong habit, and stick to the same command word each time, sit, stay, come or up, so your rabbit doesn’t get confused. Some owners use clicker training too, which works well for rabbits. As your rabbit gets more reliable, you can taper off how often you treat, but keep rewarding every now and then to keep the behaviour solid.

Harness Training

Harness training takes patience and a proper rabbit specific harness, never a collar. Start indoors with just a few minutes wearing the harness and lead at a time, build up to longer stretches, then move to lead walking indoors before ever heading outside. Keep outdoor excursions occasional and short rather than a daily long walk, and stay alert to your surroundings and other animals whenever you’re out with your rabbit in public.

Common Health Issues

Overgrown Teeth & Claws

A rabbit’s teeth grow constantly throughout their life, so plenty of hard, chewable toys and a high fibre diet are essential to keep them worn down naturally. Overgrown or crooked teeth can also be caused by trauma or a poor diet, not just a lack of toys, and correcting it is a job for a vet, not something that resolves on its own. Follow the diet and toy guidance in this guide and it’s unlikely you’ll run into teeth problems at all. Claws need regular trimming too, our team can check both teeth and claws and trim nails in store, 7 days a week.

Gastrointestinal Stasis (Hairballs)

Rabbits swallow fur while grooming themselves, and if it builds up in the stomach it can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, a serious condition where the gut slows down or stops. A high fibre diet built around quality hay keeps things moving so swallowed fur passes through without trouble, and regular brushing cuts down on how much fur they’re ingesting in the first place.

Loneliness & Stress

Rabbits are genuinely social animals, and research has linked loneliness in rabbits to a shorter lifespan. Make time for affection every day, and even a rabbit that isn’t fond of being touched still benefits from time out of the enclosure to exercise and plenty of toys to keep them occupied.

Fly Strike

Fly strike is uncommon in Australia but can affect outdoor rabbits, flies bite and irritate the skin, and can lay eggs that develop into maggots in the wound if left untreated. We stock an animal safe fly deterrent to help prevent it, or bringing your rabbit indoors removes the risk altogether.

Coat Mites & Fur Loss

Dandruff or patchy fur loss is usually a sign of mites, or less commonly fleas. The regular mite and mange spray covered under Parasite Control below is the best prevention.

Weight Loss

Unexplained weight loss can point to overgrown teeth, but it’s also linked to a long list of more serious causes, dental disease, kidney failure, stomach ulcers, tumours, poisoning and respiratory disease among them. Any noticeable drop in weight is worth a vet visit rather than a wait and see approach.

Sore Hocks (Pododermatitis)

Sore, inflamed feet or underside, known as sore hocks, usually comes down to unsuitable flooring or bedding left too long between cleans, the acid in rabbit urine can burn their skin if it’s allowed to sit.

Head Tilt

A head tilt can be caused by a stroke, a protozoan infection, trauma, cancer, or eating something toxic. It looks alarming, but with proper veterinary treatment many rabbits with a head tilt go on to live a long, happy life.

Respiratory Infection (Snuffles)

Rabbits don’t catch human colds, so wheezing, runny eyes, or a white, jelly like discharge, often called the snuffles, is actually a respiratory infection and needs a vet’s attention rather than home remedies.

Diarrhoea & Cecotropes

What looks like diarrhoea is sometimes just loose cecotropes, soft, nutrient rich droppings rabbits produce and re-eat to absorb vitamin B they can’t make themselves. Loose cecotropes look mucousy and cling to their bottom or tail rather than being eaten cleanly, and are usually caused by a diet too high in carbohydrates or sugar, too low or too high in fibre, or too many water rich vegetables. True diarrhoea is a different, more serious problem, it can lead to dehydration quickly and has a long list of possible causes including diet change, stress, too many pellets, viral or bacterial infection, parasites and antibiotics. Either way, ongoing loose droppings are worth a vet visit.

Visual Health Checks

To check your rabbit over, run your hands along their body from front to back, feeling for ribs and spine sitting too close to the surface, a clear sign they’re underweight. Take a look at the eyes, nose and mouth as well, any discharge or mucus there is worth noting. If you’re ever unsure what’s normal, bring your rabbit into Birdsville and our team will happily walk you through it, a skill worth having as any rabbit owner, and it costs nothing.

Parasite Control

New rabbits should be kept separate from any existing pets for 4 to 6 weeks after you bring them home, this quarantine window cuts down the risk of passing on illness or parasites before you know they’re in the clear. Alongside quarantine, use a preventative mite and mange spray 10 days after bringing your rabbit home, then every 12 weeks ongoing, spray evenly avoiding the eyes, full instructions are on the bottle. Rabbits can also pick up fleas, a monthly flea treatment, available in store, is worth adding if that’s a risk where you live.

Vaccination & Desexing

Rabbits should be vaccinated against calicivirus from around 10 weeks of age, with an annual booster to keep protection current. Calicivirus can be spread by biting insects, so keep an unvaccinated rabbit indoors or under mosquito netting until they’ve had their first vaccination. Some vets now offer a vaccine that can be given earlier, so it’s worth checking with your local vet about timing.

Desexing is worth discussing with your vet at the same visit, it’s not compulsory, but it’s a good conversation to have, especially if you’re keeping a male and female together.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Rabbits live in close contact with their litter and bedding, so keeping it clean is essential to avoid health problems. Ammonia from urine irritates the nasal passage and makes rabbits more prone to infection, and rabbit urine is unusually acidic compared to most pets, if it’s left to sit under the bedding it can actually burn their skin. A proper small animal safe disinfectant (see Essential Supplies above) breaks down that sticky residue as well as cleaning. As a rule of thumb, if the enclosure or your rabbit starts to smell, it’s been too long between cleans.

Toxic & Dangerous Hazards

See the Fruits & Veggie Guide above for foods to avoid entirely, iceberg lettuce, avocado, onion, garlic, chocolate and added sugar are the main culprits, alongside a number of garden plants, check with our staff before offering anything you’re unsure of.

Beyond food, avoid cedar or pine shavings, stick to dust extracted or paper based bedding instead, since the oils in cedar and pine can irritate a rabbit’s respiratory system. Keep rabbits out of direct sun and away from heaters, they’re prone to heat stress above 28°C. If your rabbit gets time roaming outside their enclosure, rabbit proof the area first, cords, skirting boards and anything chewable should be out of reach, and never leave them unsupervised around cats, dogs or other animals that could see them as prey.

General Care and Grooming

Brush your rabbit’s coat weekly to keep it in good condition, and more often during a moult, when a wire brush helps clear out loose patches of fur as they shed their baby coat for an adult one. Bathing isn’t needed often, but when you do, stick to a rabbit safe shampoo with the correct pH, human, dog and cat shampoos are too harsh for a rabbit’s sensitive skin.

Sexing

Please note our rabbits aren’t DNA sexed. We’re experienced at sexing rabbits and happy to show and explain how we do it, but it isn’t a guarantee, young rabbits in particular can be genuinely difficult to sex accurately.

Holiday Care & Boarding

If you’re heading away, a rabbit’s routine matters more than most pets, sudden changes to diet, environment or handling can bring on stress related gut problems like gastrointestinal stasis. The easiest option is a trusted friend or family member who can visit and care for your rabbit in its normal home environment, following the same diet and routine you already have in place.

If you’d rather board your rabbit, look specifically for a facility experienced with rabbits rather than a general kennel, not every boarding service is set up for small animals. Pack your rabbit’s usual pellets, hay and any familiar bedding or toys to keep as much of their routine consistent as possible, and make sure their vaccination is current beforehand, most boarding facilities will ask for proof.

Transportation

A sturdy, secure carry cage is essential any time your rabbit needs to travel, whether that’s a trip to the vet or a longer journey, a cardboard box isn’t a safe substitute, rabbits can chew through one in minutes. Line the carry cage with familiar bedding to keep the trip comfortable and reduce stress, and always secure the cage so it can’t slide or tip while the car is moving.

Keep the car at a comfortable temperature and never leave your rabbit unattended in a parked car, heat builds up quickly, even with the windows cracked. For longer trips, offer water stops and check on your rabbit periodically, and try to keep loud noise and sudden movement to a minimum, rabbits startle easily and a stressed rabbit is more prone to injuring itself against the sides of the carrier.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Rabbits can live alongside cats, dogs and other pets in the same household, but always under supervision, even a well meaning dog or cat can trigger a rabbit’s prey instinct and cause serious stress or injury. Introductions should be slow and controlled, short supervised sessions in neutral territory work best, rather than putting them together unsupervised from day one.

Two rabbits can also live together successfully, most commonly a desexed male and female pair, but littermates or same sex pairs can work too with a proper, gradual introduction. Rabbits are social animals and often do better with company, though a lone rabbit that gets plenty of daily interaction from its owner can still live a happy life.

FAQ

How long do pet rabbits live?

Lifespan depends on the breed. A Netherland Dwarf typically lives 10 to 12 years, while a Mini Lop lives around 7 to 10 years. Diet, exercise and regular health checks all make a real difference, a rabbit fed a high fibre, hay based diet with plenty of daily exercise tends to live longer and stay healthier overall.

Can rabbits be litter trained?

Yes, most rabbits are easy to litter train. Rabbits naturally choose one spot in their enclosure as a toilet, so place the litter tray there rather than trying to relocate it. Use a litter that looks and feels different from their regular bedding, that contrast helps your rabbit tell the two areas apart and keeps accidents to a minimum.

Do rabbits need to live in pairs?

Rabbits are social animals and often do better with a companion, most commonly a desexed male and female pair, though same sex pairs or littermates can work with the right introduction. A single rabbit can still live a very happy life as long as it gets plenty of daily attention, playtime and interaction from its owner.

What should I feed my rabbit every day?

An adult rabbit’s daily diet should be at least 70% good quality hay, available at all times, with around 20% quality rabbit pellets and the remaining 10% fresh leafy greens plus a small amount of fruit or root vegetable. Fresh water should always be available too, ideally from a drink bottle rather than a bowl.

Are rabbits good pets for children?

Rabbits can be wonderful family pets, but they’re not always a good match for very young children. Their spine is fragile and a sudden kick or drop can cause a serious injury, so rabbits are best suited to households where an adult supervises handling until children are old enough to manage it gently and confidently.

How often does a rabbit’s hutch need cleaning?

Spot clean soiled bedding and the litter tray daily, and give the whole enclosure a full clean at least once a week, more often in warm weather. Rabbit urine is quite acidic and can irritate their skin if left to sit, so if the enclosure or your rabbit starts to smell, it’s been too long between cleans.

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That’s everything up to your existing Vets section. Since Recommended Vets is already sitting at the bottom of the live page, slot this closing paragraph in right after it, at the very end:

If you’re ready to bring a rabbit home, take a look at our Rabbits for Sale Sydney page, or drop into Birdsville at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria NSW 2015 to meet them in person. If you’re weighing up a rabbit against another small pet, our Guinea Pig Care Guide covers everything you need for that comparison too.

Recommended Vets.     

Southern Cross 02 9516 0234 St Peters

SASH 02 8913 400 Alexandria

SERV  02 9436 4884 Artarmon

The unusual petvet  02 9319 6111 waterloo   The Wild Vet 1300 9453 838  Glebe

Carlingford Animal Hospital 02 9871 6036 Carlingford

Do’s Fruits– Apples (no seeds), Blueberries, Strawberries, Bananas and Pears Vegetables and greens– Romaine lettuce, Kale, Spinach, Bok Choy, Parsley, Cilantro and Basil, Capsicum, Zucchini and Broccoli

Don’t’s Avocado, potatoes, rhubarb, tomato leaves & stems, onions, garlic, mushrooms, chocolate and sugary treats.