Scorpions are ancient, armoured predators that have barely changed in 400 million years, and the native Australian species stocked by Birdsville, Sydney’s small animal and reptile specialist, make surprisingly easy, long lived pets once you understand their basic needs. Slow moving by day and far more active after dark, a scorpion asks for very little hands on interaction, most of the appeal is in observing rather than handling. This pet scorpion care guide walks through everything from choosing the right enclosure to reading the early signs of a problem, so your scorpion thrives from the day it arrives.

Scientific name: order Scorpiones; native Australian species commonly kept include Urodacus yaschenkoi, Urodacus elongatus and Hormurus waigiensis
Also known as: Desert Scorpion, Flinders Ranges Scorpion, Rainforest Scorpion (species dependent)
Adult size: 3 to 10cm depending on species
Lifespan: 5 to 15 years
Diet: carnivorous, live insects, fed far less often than most pets
Enclosure minimum: roughly 30cm x 20cm x 20cm for smaller rainforest species, up to 40cm x 30cm x 30cm for larger burrowing desert species
Temperature: 22 to 32°C depending on species, arid species run warmer than rainforest species
Licence requirement: none for native Australian species. Exotic, non native scorpions are illegal to keep in Australia under biosecurity law
Experience level: beginner friendly with a little research, a mild sting rather than a serious one is the main thing to respect

On This Page: Scorpions as Pets, Essential Supplies, Housing, Environment, Diet & Feeding, Providing Water, Behaviour & Handling, Common Health Issues, Parasite Control, Health, Hygiene & Safety, Toxic & Dangerous Hazards, Sexing, Record Keeping, Holiday Care, Transportation, Compatibility with Other Animals, Frequently Asked Questions, Recommended Vets and Links

Scorpions are instantly recognisable arachnid predators, with a pair of pincers up front and a curved, segmented tail tipped with a venomous stinger. Native Australian species are either burrowing or rock dwelling, and almost all are nocturnal, spending daylight hours tucked out of sight and only becoming active once the lights go down. They’re a low effort pet once the enclosure is set up correctly, the ongoing care is mostly about consistency rather than active daily work.

Secure enclosure: a glass or PVC terrarium with a tight fitting, lockable mesh lid, scorpions are strong enough to push against a loose fitting one. Minimum size depends heavily on species, roughly 30cm x 20cm x 20cm for smaller rock dwelling or rainforest species, up to 40cm x 30cm x 30cm for larger burrowing desert species that need real digging depth.
Substrate: burrowing desert species need considerably deeper substrate than other types, up to 20cm or more of a sand and soil mix for the largest burrowers, while rock dwelling and rainforest species do better on a shallower coco fibre and bark blend.
Hides and retreats: flat rocks, cork bark or a clay pot give a scorpion somewhere to retreat during the day, deep enough substrate lets burrowing species dig their own as well.
Decor and climbing: flat rocks and branches add enrichment, everything should sit stable enough that nothing can shift and crush the scorpion underneath.
Water source: a shallow water dish for most species, with light misting added for rainforest species that need higher humidity.
Cleaning supplies: paper towel, spare substrate and arachnid safe disinfectant, kept well clear of the enclosure itself.

Birdsville stocks every product listed here, and plenty more, ready to pick up in store.

What You May Consider: a thermometer and hygrometer for each end of the enclosure, feeding tongs to keep feeding hands off, and a spare enclosure for quarantine or moulting.

Match the enclosure style to the species, burrowing desert scorpions need deep substrate and floor space to tunnel into, while rock dwelling and rainforest species do better with flat hides and some vertical structure. Keep the enclosure somewhere quiet, away from direct sun and draughts. Most Australian pet scorpions are best kept one to an enclosure, they can be territorial and cannibalistic if housed together outside a deliberate, monitored pairing.

Start a juvenile in a smaller enclosure suited to its current size rather than a full adult sized setup, and move it up in stages as it grows through successive moults.

Environment

Temperature and humidity needs vary a lot by species, so it pays to know which one you have. Desert species such as Urodacus yaschenkoi like it warm, with a basking end around 28 to 32°C and low humidity, while rock dwelling species from the Flinders Ranges sit a touch cooler at 26 to 32°C. Rainforest species such as Hormurus waigiensis prefer a cooler, more humid setup, generally 24 to 28°C with humidity around 60 to 75%, maintained with regular light misting. No special lighting is needed for any of them, ambient room light on a natural day and night cycle is sufficient.

Diet & Feeding

Suitable Prey

Crickets are the staple for almost every commonly kept species, with wood roaches (often called woodies), mealworms and black soldier fly larvae all suitable additions for variety. Prey should be smaller than the scorpion’s own body length, anything larger can fight back rather than being subdued easily.

Desert vs Rainforest Scorpion Feeding

The two main types Birdsville stocks feed a little differently, and it’s worth knowing which one you’ve got.

Desert burrowing species such as Urodacus yaschenkoi are sit and wait hunters, ambushing prey from the mouth of their burrow. Offer one appropriately sized cricket once or twice a week, placed near the burrow entrance in the evening. They cope well with going without food for a stretch, especially over the cooler months, so a missed week here and there isn’t a concern.

Rainforest species such as Hormurus waigiensis hunt more passively and will pick off prey wandering nearby rather than chasing it down. One to two crickets or roaches, sized to roughly a quarter of the scorpion’s body, can be offered once or twice a week. Don’t add several insects at once, too many crawling around can stress a rainforest scorpion rather than simply feeding it, especially in the lead up to a moult.

Juveniles of either type are growing quickly and often do better on smaller prey slightly more often, roughly every 5 to 7 days, tapering to the adult schedule above as they mature. Appetite naturally drops off before a moult for any age or species, a scorpion refusing food for a couple of weeks around this time is completely normal.

Feeding Technique

Handle prey with tongs rather than bare hands, and offer it in the evening when your scorpion is naturally active rather than during the day. Always remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours, and take live insects out of the enclosure entirely once you notice the early signs of a moult.

Avoid Entirely

Skip wild caught insects, they can carry pesticide residue or parasites picked up outdoors. Don’t offer prey that’s clearly too large for the scorpion to safely handle, and hold off feeding in the lead up to and just after a moult.

Providing Water to Your Scorpions

A shallow water dish, refreshed regularly, covers most species on its own. Rainforest species such as Hormurus waigiensis also need light misting a few times a week to keep humidity up, while desert species generally don’t need misting at all and can find excess moisture more of a problem than a help.

Behaviour & Handling

Give a newly bought scorpion a week or two undisturbed to settle into its new enclosure before attempting any handling at all, a stressed new arrival is far more likely to be defensive. Scorpions are nocturnal and best appreciated as a species to watch rather than hold. Handling should be occasional and gentle at most, guide a scorpion onto your hand from the front using a soft brush or tongs rather than grabbing it, and never pick one up by the tail. Australian species aren’t considered medically dangerous, a sting is typically described as similar to a bee sting, but it’s still a defensive weapon and best avoided where you can, particularly for anyone allergic to bee or wasp venom.

Common Health Issues

Dehydration

Usually caused by insufficient water or the wrong humidity for the species. Watch for lethargy, a curled tail held close to the body, or general sluggishness. A reliable water source and species appropriate humidity prevents most cases.

Failed or Problematic Moults

Low humidity, insufficient substrate depth or an old injury can all make moulting difficult, especially in younger scorpions. Signs include a stuck or incomplete exoskeleton. Getting substrate depth and moisture right for the species goes a long way toward avoiding this.

Stress and Reduced Feeding

Overcrowding, frequent handling or a sudden change in conditions can all cause stress, often showing up as reduced appetite or increased defensiveness. Housing scorpions individually and keeping handling to a minimum largely prevents this.

Mould and Bacterial Growth

High humidity combined with poor airflow or a dirty enclosure can lead to mould or infection. Remove any affected substrate promptly and improve ventilation.

Parasite Control

Any newly purchased scorpion should spend 4 to 6 weeks in its own separate enclosure before going anywhere near other animals in the household, the same standard Birdsville applies across every new animal, giving you time to confirm it’s settled and feeding well.

Health, Hygiene & Safety

Spot clean uneaten food and waste regularly, and replace substrate partially rather than all at once so any burrows aren’t unnecessarily disturbed. Wash your hands before and after handling or working in the enclosure, and use tongs or gloves rather than bare hands wherever practical. Keep chemicals and cleaning products well clear of the enclosure.

Pesticide exposed feeder insects are the main dietary risk, source feeders from a reliable supplier rather than anything caught outdoors. Keep the enclosure away from aerosols, air fresheners, scented candles and household cleaning sprays, even mild airborne fumes can affect an animal this small. Scorpions can squeeze through surprisingly small gaps, so check lids and any cable entry points are properly sealed, both to stop escapes and to keep curious pets from getting in.

Sexing

Reliably sexing a scorpion usually means comparing the pectines, the comb like sensory organs on the underside of the body, side by side between two individuals of the same species and similar age. Males generally have longer pectines with more teeth than females of the same species. Without a second scorpion to compare against, most keepers won’t be able to confidently sex a single specimen on looks alone.

Keep a simple log of feeding dates, prey type, moult dates, substrate changes and anything unusual in behaviour. Given how infrequently scorpions feed, a log makes it much easier to notice a genuine change rather than relying on memory.

Holiday Care

A short trip away is fine as long as water and substrate moisture are topped up before you leave, scorpions are naturally well suited to going a while without attention. For anything longer, arrange for someone reliable to check water and enclosure conditions periodically, and leave clear written instructions covering the routine.

Transportation

Use a secure, ventilated container lined with a little substrate and a small hide. Keep the trip calm and stable, away from temperature extremes, and minimise handling throughout, the less a scorpion is disturbed in transit, the less stressed it arrives.

Compatibility with Other Animals

Most Australian pet scorpions are best kept solitary, this avoids the territorial disputes and cannibalism risk that can come with housing them together outside a deliberate breeding attempt. Keep the enclosure well away from cats, dogs or birds that might see it as a curiosity worth investigating.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are pet scorpions dangerous to keep?

Not really. Australian species aren’t considered medically dangerous, researchers describe a sting as similar in pain to a bee sting, with mild swelling that settles within a few days. It’s still worth minimising handling and taking care around anyone allergic to bee or wasp venom, since cross reactivity is possible.

How often should I feed my scorpion?

Less often than you’d expect either way. Juveniles do well on prey roughly every 5 to 7 days while growing, and adults of both desert and rainforest species typically only need one or two crickets once or twice a week. It’s completely normal for appetite to drop off further around a moult, and overfeeding is a far more common mistake than underfeeding with scorpions.

Why does my scorpion glow under UV light?

This is completely normal. Scorpion exoskeletons naturally fluoresce a vivid blue green under UV or blacklight, a harmless quirk of their cuticle chemistry rather than a sign of illness. Many keepers use a small UV torch after dark purely to see their scorpion light up in its enclosure.

Can I keep more than one scorpion in the same enclosure?

Generally, no. Most Australian species are territorial and will fight or cannibalise each other if housed together outside a carefully monitored breeding attempt. If you’d like more than one scorpion, the safest approach is a separate enclosure for each.

Why won’t my scorpion come out during the day?

That’s completely normal, scorpions are nocturnal and spend daylight hours tucked into a hide or burrow. Most activity, including hunting and exploring, happens well after dark, so check on your scorpion in the evening if you want to see it out and about.

How do I know if my scorpion is about to moult?

A darkening or dulling of the exoskeleton colour and a period of reduced or stopped feeding are the most reliable early signs. Once you notice these, avoid handling and leave the enclosure undisturbed until the moult is complete and the new exoskeleton has fully hardened.

Recommended Vets and Links

Vet care is rarely needed for a healthy scorpion, but if something does come up, the following exotic focused practices can help: SASH (Small Animal Specialist Hospital), 02 9190 6806, Level 1, 1 Richardson Place, North Ryde, sashvets.com; The Wild Vet, 1300 945 3838, 22A Bridge Road, Glebe, thewildvet.com.au; SERV, 02 9436 4884, 57 63 Herbert St, Artarmon, exoticsvet.com.au; Southern Cross, 02 9516 0234, 60 Princes Hwy, St Peters, southerncrossvet.com.au; Carlingford Animal Hospital, 02 9871 6036, 772 Pennant Hills Road, Carlingford, birdhealth.com.au; The Unusual Pet Vets, 02 9319 6111, 995 Bourke Street, Waterloo NSW 2017, unusualpetvets.com.au; Vetafarm, vetafarm.com.au.

Visit Us

Head into Birdsville at 684 Botany Road, Alexandria to see our native Australian scorpions in person and get properly set up. If you’re weighing up other low maintenance invertebrates, our How to Care for Pet Tarantulas and How to Care for Pet Stick Insects pages are both worth a look too.