Alexandrine for Sale

Alexandrine For Sale Sydney

 Natural Distribution

Alexandrine parrots naturally occur in india, indo china, afghanistan, western pakistan and the Andaman islands.  There natural habitat is low land wooded areas such as jungles, forests and coastal mangroves.

Description and Sexing

The Alexandrine is a large parrot measuring up to 58 cm  all green with a long tapering tale.  The head is large with a strong red beak.  The male has a black ring around the neck and has a blue-grey sheen through its cheeks and nape.  The male takes 2 years to get there adult plumage so young birds all look like females. The most effective way of sexing these birds as juviniles is dna sexing them though you can often tell with young birds as the male has a head which is a bit larger than the female.

Life span

Around 35 years


200 – 300 grams

Care and Feeding Alexandrine Parrots

In the wild these birds feed on a variety of seeds, leaf buds, fruits, nuts , blossoms and insects.

In captivity fresh food and water must be provided daily. To keep your birds healthy feed them a diet of small parrot mix with fresh fruit, veg, nuts, cooked beans, cooked rice, meal worms and soaked seeds.

The cage requires regulars cleaning and old food shouldn’t ‘be allowed to accumulate in the cage , on perches or in feeders. Water should be changed daily basis.  Do not allow fruit and veg to go moldy


Like all birds the bigger the cage the better alexandrines need a large cage if kept inside as they are a large parrot birdsville has many cages suitable for these birds.

Alexandrines are very active, playful birds and require room for many toys, perches, food/water dishes, as well as sufficient space for them to move around.


Alexandrine Aviary
Our WA Alexandrine Breeding Aviary

Alexandrines as Pets

These birds are not only large and beautiful they also have great mimicking ability.  These birds are intelligent and make a wonderful family companion provided there is regular handling and training.  The owner of a tame Alexandrine must be prepared to give these birds the correct sized large cage to stretch there wings with atleast 3 or 4 toys and a swing changing toys from time to time as boredom will eventually cause these birds to feather pluck or squark excessively which is much easier to prevent than cure.

Introducing your new bird to existing birds

Once you take your bird home you should keep it in a separate cage and allow the bird to adjust accordingly.   Always allow at least 2 weeks before introducing the bird to existing birds.  During this 2 week wait allow the birds to see and hear eachother through the cage to give them a chance to get to know eachother.



Your bird will need to be wormed in a few weeks to two month after being taken home (check with the staff from Birdsville, when purchasing). Young birds that have been recently weaned have a delicate bacteria’s developing in there gut, worming at this stage could harm the bacteria’s development and your new bird. Worming will need to be done
every 6 month. Worming your bird is essential for the health of all parrots in captivity.


Lice & Mites

These are the two most common parasites of cage birds and their environment, but are easily controlled with a Mite and Lice spray, available at Birdsville. When using spray, spray bird, entire cage, perches, nesting box and toys, remember to remove all water and feed and avoid spraying in birds’ eyes.  Your bird Lice and mite bottle will explain how to use, remember avoid the mouth and eyes.


Training Your Bird

Training is an important factor of having a well behaved hand raised bird. When you first get the bird home, let it settle down and get use to their new environment for a day or two. After these initial days, the bird should be handled in a quiet, relaxed situation. Spending time with your bird while watching TV or reading is perfect, but don’t over stress your bird in the first few weeks of taking it home, babies need their rest. The more time you spend with your bird, the better your bird will become.


When doing any training there are three basic concepts to keep in mind.


  1. When the bird does something good –> give it a reward
  2. When the bird does something undesirable –> ignore it
  3. Never punish your bird


Start training your bird with a simple command, like step up.


Have the bird on one hand, place the other hand against the birds’ chest and say the command, step up, as you apply a slight pressure to the birds’ chest. The bird will then put one leg up, pull slightly up with the second hand and the other leg will follow, reward your bird with a treat, like a favorite fruit, seed or nut.  Then repeat, as the bird gets better, get it to step up a few times before rewarding. Once your bird catches on to it, instead of rewarding it with food, reward it with praise. This will soon become second nature to the bird.


It is important not to overdo the training, keep it short, but frequent.



Eggs 2 to 4  and incubated for an average of 28 days.  The chicks fledge around 7 weeks of age which means they have grown most of there size and feathers but are still dependant on there parents for food.  Adult Alexandrine will continue to feed the babies after they have left the nest and are able to fly.  The fledglings are not weaned until around 10 to 12 weeks of age.  It is very important that during the entire breeding process that you increase the volume of food that is fed to your birds with lots of fresh fruit and veg.  At Birdsville we recoment passwell soft parrot food or vetafarm parrot breeder which is great for breeding birds as its high in protein and easily consumed to take some stress off the parents feeding many hungry mouths.

Hand rearing Alexandrine parrots

Hand rearing should start at around 2 to 3 weeks of age as these birds get good bacteria from there parents and build a stronger immune system than baby birds incubated and not parent raised at all.  There is a debate on methods of hand raising which some people believe spoon feeding is better then crop feeding.  I have raised many birds over the years using both methods and I personally believe crop feeding is better as its not as messy as spoon feeding and does not have to envade the crop at all as birds willingly take the food in the side of there mouths.  Its very important when to never allow food to go under the tongue as this is where there wind pipe is and they may choke.  When feeding babies never top up babies until they have fully digested there previouse food as they can get a condition called sour crop.  Hand rearing formular should always be made freshly there are a number of different hand rearing formulas available at birdsville from roudy bush, kaytee formula, vetafarm hand rearing formula, paasswells hand rearing formula and womaroo granivore. Over the years I’ve used all the different products and found they have all done the job well.

What to Look for When Purchasing an Alexandrine

When you are ready to purchase your new Alexandrine, here are so few hints for what to look for.

  • Eyes – should be bright and clear, there should be no discharge, swelling or redness. If the eyes that are runny, squinty, or discolored can be an indication of  infection.
  • Condition- This is very important and should be understood by any bird owner as a bird handler every time i touch any bird i feel the birds condition by touching the birds keel bone which is underneath the bird this is the anchor where the birds large wing muscles attach to allow the bird to have strong wing muscles for flight.  When a bird is un well the first thing that usually happens is they lose weight and there breast muscle becomes very light on.  Because of birds very high metabolic rate they can lose weight very quickly and become ill so this should be checked by bird owners on a regular basis especially if they see there bird not as active as normal.
  • Mouth and beak – should be clean and free of injury, no lesion, wetness or build up insid the mouth. The beak should not be over grown.
  • Nose, nostrels or cere – should be open and free of discharge.
  • Feathers – the bird should be fully feathered and sleek with a smooth appearance. Depending on the age, sometimes the tail feathers will be somewhat ragged due to young birds regularly walking through there wet food and having them rub on objects and wire.
  • Wing Clipping – if wings are clipped, both wings should be clipped, not just one and all outer feathers should be cut. If the last two outer feathers are not cut the bird could injur themself and if only one wing is only clipped the bird still may fly, just lopsided and cause injury when landing. Birdsville will clip wing for free with any purchase.
  • Weaning – it is highly recommended, if you don’t have hand raising experience, only weaned birds should be bought. Hand feed might look and seem like a simple process, but it can be easily done incorrectly adn time comsuming. Mistakes when hand feeding can cause irreversible harm and even lead to death of the young bird. Alway choose birds that are fully weaned and eating independently. Your bond with the bird will not suffer for it in the least.
  • Voracious eaters – observe the birds that you’re interested in and you should look for birds that are the most voracious eaters. Choose a bird that displays a large appetite. This is an indication of good general health and well being.
  • Pooy vent (anus) – there should be no staining or fecal matter on the feathers around the vent.
  • Leg – should  look clean.
  • Clean enclosure – the enclosure where the birds are kept should be clean and hyginic, to reduce the likelyness of illness or infection.
  • Active and alert – The bird should be active and alert. If it appears sluggish or weak it could be ill or to young to be feeding on it’s own.